Musings about spinning wheels -- reproduction wheels (Midway)

There was a craze for Americana, and in particular, colonial-style decorating in the middle decades of the 20th century.   For those who couldn't afford proper genuine antiques, the market provided new-looking reproductions in the same or similar style.  Reproduction furniture in colonial styles.  Reproduction braided rugs.  Reproduction doo-dads.  Among the doo-dads that could be used to furnish one's rooms were reproduction spinning wheels.  Many were lovely, made from attractive wood that had been nicely finished.

Some, such as the Roxton made in Canada wheel I mentioned in a recent post, were completely non-functional.  But some were honestly patterned after genuine pre-20th century antique wheels.  And some of those actually were usable as spinning wheels.

Country Craftsman and Daneker are moderately well known among fans of vintage reproduction wheels.  Many Country Craftsman wheels are reasonable spinners.  Some Daneker wheels are, too, though from what I've heard, it's more hit or miss with them.

There were manufacturers of kit wheels, too.  A person would buy the kit and assemble the wheel him or herself, staining it or otherwise decorating it appropriately.  Again, some were functional and some weren't.  Ditto for spinning wheel plans, which were fabulous for the home woodworker but weren't always made by people who understood how a spinning wheel produces yarn.

This fondness for spinning wheels of an imagined simpler or more rustic past wasn't just limited to the US.  There are European reproduction wheels, too.

Also, I wonder about the genuine spinning wheel manufacturers around the world that were making wheels then -- how many were aimed at spinners and how many at decorators?

In general, reproduction wheels tend to be a bit cruder than the originals.  The details aren't as refined, and I don't know if that's due to the economics of making these or if it reflected the aesthetic tastes of the times (for simpler or less fussy decorating details).  The ones aiming at the decor market tend to use brass for the metal bits and the placement of hooks on the flyer (if any) can be a little hit or miss.

Anyway, in case it wasn't obvious where this post was going, there are a fair number of these kinds of wheels knocking about on the used market.  They show up at estate sales.  Sold on used doo-dad sites as "sitting in the barn for 20 years or more, and it was here when I moved in".  The sellers tend not to be spinners and mostly thought of these as decor.  And indeed, when I went to look at some of them, they rarely showed any signs of having been used for spinning.

In general, these wheels needed a solid cleaning after being in an unheated outbuilding for a few decades.  They sometimes needed a bit of patience to loosen up parts that were stuck either with grime or with the shrink/swell action of two decades of being outdoors.  They needed a new driveband, and sometimes new bits of leather.  Any distaff that was still with the wheel usually ended up being more ornamental than useful.  And of course they needed lots and lots of oil as I started to spin.

I did not acquire wheels that needed major repairs.  No flyer/bobbin?  Broken flyer or missing/broken flywheel spokes?  Nope, someone else could take on that project.  Ditto for wheels where the flyer/bobbin clearly did not match the rest of the wheel or were obviously non-functional.  I also kept to my very strict budget so I wouldn't be overwhelmed by all the enticing wheels out there.

None of these wheels had more than one working bobbin, and none had orifice hooks or other spinning accessories.  If they had a driveband, it was usually some kind of thick (and ostentatious) rope, as if to emphasize its spinning wheel bona fides.  ("It works!" they would say as they turned the flywheel and the flyer obediently turned, too.)

I do have a few of these vintage repro wheels, but only ones that can spin yarn.  They tend to be a bit finicky but are perfectly usable, and indeed, I do use them.

Probably the first I brought home was a Midway wheel.  I don't know all the history, but the Ohio company that made these reproduction wheel kits also put out a wheel called the Hallcraft wheel.  There might have been a few more brand names, in addition to wheels that were a bit of a mash-up.

It's fairly small, about 3' high and 3' long.  (This seemed tiny when compared with my CPW.)  The ratios are, I believe, 10:1 and 12:1.  It's a double-drive wheel.

This is what it looked like when I picked it up.

Here's another view, from a person who bought out some remaining inventory from the Midway Manufacturing Company and was selling newly-assembled wheels that were similar though not exactly identical.  The distaff is different and mine has darker wood, but they're very similar other than that.

One of my cats chewed on the distaff, alas, but all the distaff ever really did was tip over and fall off, so it's not like I ever used it.

I don't use my Midway very often, but it is a serviceable wheel that makes yarn without a lot of fuss.  What more could one ask for?

I am thinking about selling it, though, or at least loaning it out to a new spinner -- it deserves to go to someone else who is in need of a simple yet functional spinning wheel, and who would use it more often than I do.

Somewhere I have some of the yarn I made on this wheel, but I'm not sure where.  I mostly did small skeins of this and that rather than a large batch of anything..

I have other vintage reproduction wheels but those will be saved for future posts!

Continued doily dithering

Lavori 07/30 doily

OK, I've gotten as far as round 181 (really 182) on the Lavori 07/30 doily.  I've followed the chart but added the additional hex mesh motif in the middle of the hex mesh area.

Next round (183), another set of leaf tips joins the hex mesh motif.  I can do that round the same as the previous rounds, but I also have the opportunity to add yarnovers between the leaf tips and their neighboring leaves, similar to the way the chart had me do on round 173.

The decision I make will affect the next few rounds.

When I look closely at the photos in Lavori 7, it seems like this area has the maximum amount of binding and distortion.  So....  what should my approach be?

As charted (the incorrect way), round 183 has 8 stitches in the hex mesh area.  Round 185 and Round 187 have 8, round 189 has 6, round 191 has 2, and then leaf tips join again but it's all pretty straightforward from there.

One of the charts I drew (and have been following so far) does not add yarnovers.  Round 183 has 12 stitches in the hex mesh area (due to the extra hex mesh motif), round 185 has 10, round 187 has 6, round 189 has 4, and then round 191 has 2 and I've converged back on the same stitch count.

Given that the area will bind and distort when I block it, should I add more stitches so that rounds 187 and 189 have more stitches?  Or will it look stupid to have additional hex mesh motifs in that area, and also make it harder to converge back down to 2 stitches by round 191?   Round 193, which is labeled as 201, adds leaf tips again, which can complicate any approach that has more than 2 stitches for round 191, since I really do want to finish up the doily with the column of O-A-O (yo, sk2p, yo) between the outer fans (and leaves) for the final few rounds.

I will chart out a few possibilities now that I've reached this point and then decide what I want to do.

In other stream-of-consciousness ramblings, I made a knitting mistake in one of the pattern repeats, somewhere 2-4 rounds before round 181, in the area where leaves are growing from a stem.  Ugh.  Maybe I could fix it, but it's in a spot where there are lots of yarnovers, k-tbls, single decreases, and double decreases.  Chances are high that I'd make things a lot worse if I tried.  So...  I chickened out.  I left it alone and continued the pattern correctly on round 181, ignoring whatever was going on in round 179 or 177 or wherever it crept in.  Hopefully it won't be too obvious.  There will be a slight jog in the line of the stem in the one spot.  I don't know exactly what I did, but I think I did a twisted stitch instead of a double decrease and vice versa, low in the leaf where it's just separating from the stem and there are both stem stitches and leaf mid-rib stitches and the leaf's plain knit stitch(es) should surround the mid-rib but not the stem.

Sometimes I catch errors on the intermediate round, and sometimes I just tune out and knit without double-checking.  Most of the time, I can easily fix a problem even on the next pattern round because it's usually something pretty simple.  It gets trickier at places where there's a lot going on and it would be hard to build the section back up again if I drop the wrong yarnover or decrease at the wrong spot and various stitches run even further.  It's also complicated because this area is very scalloped due to the stacked increases and thus it's not always all that easy to follow the line of stitches from round to round.  I don't love this project so much that it needs to be perfect.  Heck, the design isn't perfect and we all know the chart isn't, either.

I am pretty excited to have only 20 pattern rounds left to go.  I think there are roughly 1100 stitches per round, give or take a bit, and it'll only keep increasing from here.  I'm glad I seem to have the stamina to do a 200+ round doily project these days.  Ten years ago I probably would have declined and chosen to do several smaller doilies instead.

I'm not sure what I'll do when this one is done.  Smaller doilies for a while?  And how small -- 50 rounds or 150 rounds?  Or do I want to choose another big one, where "big" is defined as over 150 rounds and probably over 200 rounds, or even over 300 rounds?  That's something to ponder as I eagerly plod my way through the next 20 rounds (and probably still close to 30,000 stitches).  The knitting is reasonably fun and I am genuinely happy about being close to done.  But it's still a lot of knitting.

Travel Shawl (Miami Vice shawl pattern)

I've finally knit all of the yarn that was reclaimed from the Daisies project and am now knitting fresh yarn from the yarn ball.  Yay!  So far there's no unhappy pooling, also yay!  I'm in the first band of the eyelet patterned part of the shawl.

More Travel Knitting (charity hat)

I needed a project that I could easily pick up and put down, no need to reach the end of a row or anything.  It's been a while since I knit a charity hat, so I started a new one.  It's in dark green acrylic (probably Red Heart) and is the usual k1p1 ribbed hat on 80 stitches.

Appledore Gansey

This is still coming along nicely.  I'm very close to the spot where I can start the underarm gussets.  I want to try it on the recipient to make sure it's not too big, too long, too short, etc., before I continue.  I'm nearing the end of my second skein of handspun, which means 325-ish yards once I reach the end.  The next skein I wound into a ball is about 125 yards.  Sweaters with fat yarn go faster and use less yardage than sweaters with thin yarn.  Not that this is necessarily good or bad.  There are trade-offs either way.  But I am definitely enjoying the speed at which the sweater is growing.

A Roving We Will Go (fiber fun)

I went to Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival with a friend.  We didn't have as much time there as we sometimes do.  So I think I missed some vendors I wanted to see.  Oh, well!  Also, we went on the last day so the selection was probably not quite as good as it was earlier.  There was still plenty available, of course!  And plenty of cute animals to admire, and sometimes even pet!

I was very restrained (probably too restrained) and only bought a few things.  My friend was also fairly restrained.

I got small batches (4 oz each) of a mostly-Romney roving in medium to dark gray, and a mixed Navajo-Churro/Icelandic roving in mid-brown.  I don't know if that's a cross-bred sheep or a blend, though I think it's a blend, and I don't know the percentages of each.  It  has lovely darker fibers (probably Icelandic outer coat) mixed in with the lighter.  The mostly-Romney is from cross-bred sheep.  The flock started out as Romney but over the years there were occasionally rams of other breeds introducing outside genetics.

I also got a slightly larger mixed Maker's Blend from a different vendor, of various colors of dark-autumn-toned wool with maybe a bit of alpaca.  It was packaged as a mini-bump, so I'm not sure if the colors are all kind of mixed together or if there will be some variegation as I spin it.

The Churro/Icelandic roving is whispering to me so I'll probably spin it up soon.  Chances are that I will do my usual default-spun 2-ply.  I'm not sure exactly what I'll do with the yarn since it's not going to be next to the skin soft.  A hat or a pair of mittens seems likely.  Or maybe I'll use it for weaving or something.

I also want to think about what to do with the Maker's Blend.  If it's variegated, then maybe I should do a chain ply (aka Navajo 3-ply).  Or keep it as singles and then ply it against something else, maybe.  Or keep it as singles, period, and use it that way.

Last year I got what I think was the same gray mostly-Romney roving from the same people.  It's already spun up into a lovely yarn.  It'll be interested to see how this year's roving compares.  That's part of why I stopped and bought stuff from these people once I saw their booth -- I knew I liked their roving from last year.

Here's a pic of the yarn I spun from last year's Romney-X roving.  I ended up with about 250 yards of 2-ply from the 4 ounces.  It was an enjoyable spin, very clean and easy to draft.

There are some other things in my fiber stash I'd like to spin soon. I've been eyeing them but haven't been able to decide what to spin first so nothing gets done.  Sigh.  I do want to have room in my stash for more lovely things by the time next year's fiber festivals start up.  Hopefully I'll settle down and spend time with my wheels as the weather continues its descent into winter.

It's probably about time for another post on spinning wheels...

I think that's all I wanted to ramble about today.

Sweaters, doilies, and shawls (progress reports, mostly)

This is mostly a progress report kind of post, which is very much what the current purpose of the blog is.

Lavori 07/30:  I decided to follow the chart as closely as possible, with one extra hex mesh motif in the middle of the hex mesh section.  This will take me through round 181 with no further adjustments.

There's a chart error/typo on round 173.  I think I wrote about it earlier.  But yes, given that I'm following the chart, more or less, there is a missing yarnover on the left side of the hex mesh motif.  There is a yarnover that will separate the leaf tips from the rest of the leaf motif.

There are also chart errors/typos on rounds 175, 177, and 179.  The second decreasing leaf motif, before the outer fans motif, have a yarnover inside the leaves.  They look like (skp, kX, yo, k2t) instead of (skp, kX, k2t), which is what they are supposed to be and what all the other decreasing leaf tips are.  X in this case is 7, then 5, then 3.  It's pretty obvious when you get there after you're over the first slight bit of confusion.  Round 179 has an additional chart error/typo, in the last of the increasing leaf motifs.  There's a missing yarnover -- it should be k2, yo, k-tbl, yo, k2, like all of the other increasing leaf motifs in the round.

I started another ball of thread near the beginning of round 175 (near the end of the second pattern repeat).  This one looks like it's close to a full ball, and the full ball was labeled as containing 500 yards.  Will it be enough to get me all the way to the end of the doily?  I suspect not, but I'm hopeful anyway.  The rounds already have roughly 1000 stitches per round and the number of stitches per round is going to keep increasing rapidly all the way to the end of the doily as the outer fan motifs develop.

I am confident that I will have enough thread to finish the doily, since after this final partial ball is finished, I still have 3 full balls (350 yards each) that I can use.  The remainder should be enough for another fairly large doily, or if not, then a few smaller doilies.

Travel project shawl:  I'm toodling along on the Miami Vice shawl.  It's not a half pi -- it's pretty much a full pi, though knit flat rather than in the round.  I've only done a few inches and already have over 200 stitches per row on the needle.  Oh, well.  I have 980 yards of yarn that will be knit one stitch at a time, whether the project increases stitches slowly or rapidly.  Hopefully I don't get any annoying stacking of the variegation in the stretches where the stitch count remains relatively constant.  I guess I'll find out!

Appledore Gansey -- still coming along nicely.

Hmm, I really could use another project.  Mittens or fingerless mitts?  A hat?  Socks?

And, because we're having lovely sweater weather, let me share a pic of a sweater I finished and then narble on about it for a few paragraphs.

Elizabeth Zimmermann Seamless Hybrid sweater (from handspun)

This is a sweater made from Elizabeth Zimmermann's Seamless Hybrid pattern.  It's one of the percentage-based recipes in her book Knitting Without Tears, though I used the version that is in the revised edition of Knitting Workshop.

It's called a hybrid because the upper area (above the armholes) starts out like a raglan and then transitions to a wide saddle shoulder.  There's also a back saddle, sort of like a yoke but not quite.

Hmm, I should probably take some better photos to show the details more clearly.

I knit mine from some handspun.  When I bought the roving bump, I was told it was "mostly merino".  I have no idea if that is true, but the sweater is definitely soft enough to wear next to the skin.  The yarn is a 2-ply in a dark maroon color with flecks of blue and purple.  The edges are garter stitch and the rest is stockinette.

There were a few things I had to rip and re-do since my initial calculations were a bit off.  No big deal.  There were a few spots that looked a bit odd until after blocking.  Again, no big deal, and I have enough knitting experience to not immediately assume the worst when things look weird before blocking.

On the whole, though, I'm very fond of this sweater and very pleased at how it turned out.  It's warm and comfortable and attractive.  I've already been wearing it this autumn.

I have several ounces of the yarn left, not that I have any good ideas what to do with it yet.  It might or might not be enough for a vest.  At one point, I was turning all my oddballs into socks, but I'm not sure I want to do that with a soft merino yarn.  So for now, I smile at it when I go stash-diving into the handspun stash.

Proper Knitting Weather

Autumn is here, with cool, wet, blustery weather.  We even had a bit of a thunderstorm last night as the latest front arrived.

I haven't posted for a while.  However, I have been doing stuff!  So here's another boring progress report on my projects.

Appledore-ish Gansey

This is coming along.  My gauge seems to be holding steady at about 4 st/in.  I have a few more inches to go on the body before I start the underarm gusset.

Here is a bad photo (my specialty!).  The color is way off -- the yarn is a nice dark forest green.  This photo is from a few weeks ago, and I've knit several more inches since then.

I rather like this phase of a project -- lots and lots of fairly mindless knitting.  I can zone out and just go around and around, stopping whenever I need to.  Of course I have to pay attention at the seams, but that's why I have stitch markers.  It's great for travel knitting as well as for something to do while I am in a meeting or watching a video, etc.

Hobbit Shawl

This is the feather-and-fan comfort shawl that has been my travel knitting project for the past several weeks.  The name of the variegated yarn's colorway is "Middle Earth", so the shawl become the Hobbit Shawl now that it's done.

It'll grow a bit if/when I block it, but it's a perfectly reasonable shoulder shawl as is.  I'm wearing it now, in fact.  I used all but a few yards of my 4 50-gram skeins of this DK-weight yarn, between 450 and 500 yards of yarn.

Now I need a new travel project, since the sweater won't be a good travel project for much longer.

Good-bye to the Daisies Shawl project and maybe hello to a new shawl project

I started this a few years ago.  It's the Daisies shawl, from an old pattern from the Heirloom Knitting website (Sharon Miller's website).  It was fun enough, though there's some slight inconsistency in the charting as it goes from the initial set-up rows to the sets of repeating motifs.

But I hadn't touched it in a few years.

So...  It's gonna be unraveled and the yarn used for a new project.  There's another old pattern linked through Ravelry that might work well for this -- it looks like a half-pi (or 3/4-pi) with bands of offset eyelets (not quite a faggoting stitch since the wrong-side rows are purled) separated by thinner bands of a more solid pattern stitch.  The potential pattern is called Miami Vice, by Hilary Latimer (from threebagsfulled).  If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try something else, right?  I don't plan to reskein and wash/steam the yarn to remove the kinks from being part of a knit-up shawl for a few years.  Hopefully that won't be too much of an issue.  If I have enough yarn left when I get to the end of the pattern, I might add a sideways-knit edging.  Or I might not.  My guess is that I won't have enough yarn left anyway.

The yarn is from Crazy Monkey Creations, a nice gentle variegated pink sock-weight yarn (MonkeyToes, a 100% superwash merino 2-ply yarn, in a colorway Christy calls Girly Girl).  I have 2 100-gram skeins of it, close to 1000 yards.

I might try the Daisies project again in the future, possibly using a thicker yarn.  But it requires just enough concentration that it isn't a fabulous project for times that require mindless knitting projects.

Lavori 07/30 doily progress (charting!)

I think, fingers crossed, that I might finally have a workable chart for the hex mesh area.  I will double-check the stitch counts one more time and then maybe give it a try.

This means that any errata I list will be more for the outer-fans or leaf part of the doily -- the entire hex mesh area is borked anyway given the problems earlier in the pattern.  I may share my chart for my solution.  However, there are a LOT of potential solutions.  I don't know if mine is the best.  Heck, I don't even know for sure yet if it's 100% correct.  I may still go back to the approach of following the chart (with one extra hex mesh motif repeat) and ignoring the issues until they can no longer be ignored, which will be approximately where the leaf tips get incorporated into the hex mesh around round 183.

I tried to keep the outer stitches aimed in the correct direction, to mostly have double yarnovers between decreases where possible, and to incorporate the leaf tips reasonably gracefully into the hex mesh area.  I looked at previous areas in the chart where the hex mesh is next to the leaves and the leaf tips get incorporated to see examples of how Niebling approached the potential issues.

There are a few spots where my potential chart fix has 2 fewer stitches per hex mesh section than the original/wrong chart.  Hopefully that won't be a problem.  I don't foresee a problem with the rounds where I have 2-4 more stitches than the original/wrong chart.  But who knows?  That whole area is gonna be a bit funky anyway no matter what I do, given all the stacked increases happening in the outer fans area.

I'm resigned to maybe having to unravel a few gazillion-stitch rounds if it turns out to be necessary to adjust my chart in a way that can't be done on the fly.  I don't like using lifelines because they are too much of a pain to pick up the stitches from, in addition to the hassle of putting in the lifeline and having it not distort the stitches in a way that's noticeable during blocking.

The current photo shows the usual wad of thread, so I won't bother including it in this post.

I'm looking forward to making actual knitting progress again on this.  I'm on the last chart!  The last few dozen rounds!  So close to done.  Well, if you don't count the number of stitches left to do, which is still way in excess of 20,000 and maybe closer to 40,000.  I'm looking forward to finishing so I can start thinking about the next doily project(s).

Weaving

Nothing new here, but what the heck, here's a photo of the initial Tia rigid heddle project that I was writing about last month.

I haven't started another project yet.  I'm thinking about what I might want to try and what yarn I might want to use.  Houndstooth or log cabin?  Rig up some string heddles and do twill?  Just crank out some random strips of fabric and sew them together for a blanket/throw/bag?  Etc.  I don't particularly want napkins or towels or runners.  Scarves are not that useful, either.  Rigid heddle looms are not usually recommended for rugs, though maybe they'd be OK for rag rugs.  I don't want to make handwoven clothing.  I'm sure I'll get inspired at some point, and then warp up something and get going again.

Etc.

I think that's it, for the things I write about on this blog.

If I have a chance, I'll try to spin a bit this week.  Next weekend is Oregon Flock and Fiber, and I might be going there with friends.  I don't need anything.  But serendipity is a thing, and maybe something will come home with me anyway.  I want to support my friends who are selling there, after all, plus the festival has all kinds of interesting things that one doesn't always see for sale elsewhere.  I like being able to support local vendors, especially the ones raising fiber animals and/or making these wonderful products available to us.  However, I'd like to feel like I'm more or less doing steady-state with my spinning stash.  I gleefully restocked my dwindling fiber stash when everything opened up after COVID and I'm still slowly working through those purchases.

Google is offering me all kinds of AI-assisted beta features for this blog.  I don't want any.  I like having a dead-simple blog format and prefer to keep it that way.  If any AI-crud gets inserted anyway, I'll do my best to disable it.  If I can't, then my deepest apologies.  Alas, I've been here on blogger long enough that I don't necessarily wish to switch blogging platforms, but I will if I have to.  Well, as long as I can find something simple.  No bells or whistles for me, nor any AI-assisted anything.  AI is relatively useless for the kinds of things I do and I hate the effect it's had on me being able to find anything accurate and reputable for my own various internet searches.

Today's meaningless post (progress reports plus a doily pic)

 Roll call on my projects!

Tia Rigid Heddle Loom First Weaving Project

The piece is off the loom.  I hem-stitched the ends.  That was a new thing for me!  I went around four warp threads and up two weft threads.  The instructions I was using went from left to right.  I don't know if that's the usual direction, but it felt very much like I was sewing left-handed.  The stitches are a bit uneven, of course, but were getting better by the time I was done.

Then I soaked the piece in water for a long time.

The red runs.  Runs and runs and runs, even with lots of direct rinsing.  So the white is now a somewhat blotchy off-white.  I don't believe all the excess red is gone, either!

The so-called magic where everything supposedly gets relaxed and filled in?  Didn't happen.  Maybe that's because this is cotton?  Or it needs a hot-water washer and dryer experience (with plenty of soap in the wash), ironing, a bit of abuse, or something beyond what I did?  The bits that are uneven are probably more obvious since the warp and weft are so contrasting in color.  It's not hugely uneven, but enough for me to notice.

So, now I have a striking yet not terribly attractive piece of weaving, yay!  I don't know if I'll do anything with it or just toss it into my samplers and prototypes box.

I mean, it's not terrible.  As a beginner piece, it is perfectly fine.  I learned a lot by doing it, and feel very ready to tackle the next project.

Fresh off the loom, it was 9.5" wide and 52" long.  After the long soak and then hanging it to dry, it's about 9" wide and still 52" long.  I haven't cut the excess warp length yet.

I'm not sure what I'll weave next, and whether it'll be on this loom or another of the small looms floating around the household or borrowed from friends.

Lavori 07/30 Doily Progress and Chart Error(s)

I've knit a couple of rounds, yay!

As I wrote earlier, for round 165 and beyond, I'm following the basic pattern set up that was established in previous rounds.  That means that the first set of hex mesh needs one more hex mesh motif (k2tog, yox2, ssk) for all the rounds until further notice.  The second set is fine as charted through round 169.

Round 169:  This should start with a 1Mv.  In other words, the last stitch of round 167 will become the first stitch of 169.  (When you reach the end of round 168, move the last stitch to the beginning of the next round before starting the chart.)

I'm still looking at the charts to see how I want to handle the discrepancy once I move to the 12 PR/rnd chart.  It becomes more of an issue when a leaf closes up and the double-decrease of the leaf tip needs to merge into the hex mesh.  Plus there's still the extra-or-missing? issue of the asymmetric yarnover placement in round 173.

Hobbit Shawl (F&F Comfort Shawl travel project)

I'm on the last ball of yarn.  This has been going much faster than I expected!  I still like the shawl.  It seems like it'll be an OK size after blocking.

It's turned out to not actually be a great travel project because I can't keep track of things when I'm in meetings and stuff.  I need to be able to count every now and then!  Plus knowing if I'm on the right or wrong side of the shawl also turns out to be important.

I might make another of these after this one is done, using some other batch of yarn.  It's a good pattern for yarn with a longish variegation and/or lots of small batches of this and that.

Appledore Gansey

This seems to be going pretty well at the moment.  My gauge does seem to be 4 st/in in stockinette, whew.  I'm on the second skein of handspun.  I seem to have chosen the largest skein after the smallest, but that doesn't matter.

At this point in the sweater, it's actually a better travel project than the Hobbit Shawl.  I have to re-measure the intended recipient so I know when to begin the underarm gusset but there's a fair amount of knitting to do before I get close to the underarm.

I like how it looks so far.

Etc.

I'll be traveling a bit in the next few weeks, possibly including a bit of camping.  I think I'll bring some Red Heart acrylic and #7 needles and make k1p1 hats for charity.  That's if I do anything, of course -- I feel more comfortable having a project with me even if I never touch it.

I don't remember what else I'm thinking about starting -- just the usual cloud of "maybe I should do X!" that follows me around much of the time.

Doily Pic!  (Erich Engeln #60E)

It's been a while since I've included a doily pic.

This is a pattern by Erich Engeln, #60E, i.e., the E pattern in pamphlet 60.  It's small but cute, though I say that about almost any doily I knit.  It has 30 rounds.  Apparently there are a few design quirks, but I didn't write down what, if anything, they were.  Clearly it could stand to be re-blocked, assuming I still have it around and haven't given it away.

I knit this many years ago, probably in the first several years I was knitting doilies.  I think it might have been the first Erich Engeln pattern I knowingly knit.  Maybe that's why I noted the design quirks -- his designs and charting styles are distinctive, possibly in a way I had not previously encountered.

A group of us on one of the old lace mailing lists did a group order from the person who had the rights to sell copies of Erich Engeln's patterns.  We bought a complete set of the pamphlets, all photocopied but still quite legal.  I think there were close to 100 pamphlets -- tons of lovely designs to knit, all in Erich Engeln's distinctive charting style.  This doily is one of those designs.

Doing an international group order like we did is the Doily Underground in action.

Yet another interim/progress report

First project on the Tia rigid heddle loom

I still haven't taken my first rigid heddle weaving project off of the loom.

Soon.  I'm pretty sure I'll hemstitch it, simply because I've not done that before.  So hopefully there will be more information about how this project turned out by the end of the month.

As you can see from the photo, one of my weaving assistants has taken an interest in my project.

Lavori 07/30 doily

I'm still playing around with the charting.

However, I'm getting tired of the dithering.  I think most of it will work as charted, with the extra motif in the middle, for several more rounds.  (By "as charted", I mean by following the chart but using the second area of hex mesh as a guide for doing the first area, too.)

I want to be knitting on this.  So I will slowly start up again and continue looking at charting possibilities until round 173 or so.  Round 173 has an issue with either a missing or an extra yarnover just outside of the hex mesh area; I believe it to be a missing yarnover but will confirm when I get there.  Sometime in the next several rounds after that will be time for me to have a reasonable adaptation in place to help the hex mesh area look good as it works its way to a proper end.  The last few rounds of the doily use a stacked column of (yo, SK2P, yo) in that spot, but I can probably mess around with exactly which round that will start on.

Hobbit Travel Shawl  (feather and fan comfort shawl)

This is zipping along.  I'm on the second go-through of the general pattern repeat, with 5 sets of motifs per side.  The third ball of yarn is mostly gone, and fairly soon I will start on the fourth and final ball of yarn.  I still like how it looks.  The shawl will be on the small side, as expected, but should be pretty reasonable after blocking.

I'd better start thinking about the next travel project.

Appledore-ish Gansey

I'm on the next iteration (or gauge swatch) of this sweater.  I've switched to a big batch of forest green handspun.  I started with 160 stitches but soon decided that this would be too big.  I cast on again with 144 stitches and so far, so good.  I did 16 rounds of k1p1 ribbing and then switched to stockinette, with one purl stitch along each side seam.  I've knit until the end of the first skein of yarn.  The first skein is the smallest of this batch of handspun, probably in the 90-95 yard range.

It's still a gauge swatch rather than a committed project.  It's possible I will unravel it yet again and start over on even fewer stitches, especially if I make it for someone else who has expressed interest in it (as opposed to making it for myself).  Soon there will be enough stitches that are far enough away from the needle and the ribbing to get an accurate gauge, I hope.  It's going to be close to 4 st/in, but I'm not sure exactly how close.

I do like the fabric I'm getting.  So I'll stay with this yarn/needle combo even if I re-start on a different number of stitches.  If I do need to restart, hopefully it'll be the last time I need to do that for this sweater.

I cast on using a 3mm needle because it was a really long needle and I wanted to make it easier to not twist when I joined!  Also, I wanted to make sure the cast on was relatively loose and relaxed to maintain the elasticity of the lower edge.  I used a crochet cast-on, then started immediately in rib as I knit back across the cast-on, and then joined.  After a round or two, I switched to the 2.5mm needle for the rest of the ribbing, then returned to the 3mm (a shorter needle) for the body.  I decided to keep the same number of stitches for the ribbing and body because I'm lazy and didn't feel like increasing.

The yarn is from the "Castle Rock haul" of roving bumps.  I was in a yarn store many years ago that had a table where people could bring in stuff they wanted to sell.  The table had a lot of bumps of what I think was some kind of Brown Sheep roving dyed into various colors, all at a really good price.  I bought several bumps in different colors, which was only a small fraction of what was there.  It's all been spun up and/or given away by now.  Most of the bumps spun really consistently into a 2-ply Aran-ish weight.  There are some thick-and-thin areas and a few of them ended up a bit slubby, but all of the batches (of the ones that were the same thing even though they were different colors) run approximately the same average thickness.  Several batches have already been knit into various projects, mostly the smaller batches.  One smallish batch is destined to be an area rug or bag or maybe a small weaving project since it's fairly scratchy.  Most of the rest of the remaining batches are enough for sweaters or other large projects.

A true gansey is knit from something that is a lot closer to sock-weight yarn, often at 7-9 stitches per inch.  That's why this is gansey-ish rather than the true historic ethnic style.

General Dithering

I've not really worked on any other fiber pursuits since the last post, I don't think.

I'm thinking about a next weaving project but only vaguely so far.  I haven't started a new tablet-weaving project, nor sprang, nor braiding, nor inkle.  Netting is starting to intrigue me -- the kind used to make fishnets and hammocks and stretchy bags, not the fine needlework version used for hairnets -- but I'm not sure if/when I'll teach myself how to do it.  Chances are I would write about most of these on my narrow wares blog rather than on this blog.

I should start a charity hat because it's that time of year.  I'm thinking of making another cabled hat or some mittens (or fingerless mitts) from small batches of yarn, whether commercial or handspun.  I'd add cowls to that list, but cowls have been irritating my neck lately so I've been using polarfleece against my skin rather than good honest wool and alpaca, alas.  I should also think about what I feel like spinning next, and whether I want to go to Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival this year (and what my money-and-storage-space budget might be).

And that's it for this post!  Hopefully I'll have the weaving project done by the next post, and ditto for starting to make progress again on the doily, and also making progress on the sweater as it goes from a gauge swatch to an actual planned sweater.  A lot of my fiber-related activities are like that -- things in progress at various stages of completion from idea through the process of planning and then execution all the way through to the final finished project.  Luckily, there's no rush for most of these.

A second weaving post and other progress reports

Weaving on the Tia rigid heddle loom

I've slowly been weaving and have finally reached the end of my first warp on the Tia rigid heddle loom.

It's been sitting until I get ambitious/brave enough to finish the ends and cut it off the loom.  Knots?  Braids?  Twisted cord?  Hemstitching?  There are more options but I want to keep things relatively simple.

Then I can soak it and all that other post-finishing treatment and see what it really looks like.  It's possible that the red will bleed into the white, but I don't care if the white goes a little pinkish.

The above pic is a closeup of what the weaving looks like.  It's not too bad for a beginner.

The selvedges aren't too terrible, either.  I did a lot of experimenting as I wove -- how tight to pull the yarn, what angle to leave the weft at before beating, that kind of thing.  Once I get things figured out, it'll be more about practicing to build consistency.

It's relatively balanced, especially considering that the weft is thinner than the warp.  Where it's not balanced, it's slightly warp-faced.

I have no idea what I'll do with the piece of cloth.  Maybe a bag?

I also don't know what (or when!) my next weaving project will be.

Appledore-ish gansey project

I did a bit of swatching for the Appledore-inspired sweater I'd like to make, and then today I cast on!  I chose my fuzzy gray handspun yarn on 2.5 and 3mm needles, which seems to be knitting up at a fairly shocking 4 st/in because it gets splitty if I use finer needles.  Or maybe the fuzz makes the yarn want to knit up at that gauge.  Or it's this particular skein and other skeins are finer.

Anyway, it did not go well.

First, I miscounted the number of cast-on stitches and had to re-do part of the cast-on.

Then, I joined and wasn't sufficiently careful not to twist.  Yep, twisted.

So I went back a ways and then rejoined.

Twisted again!  Argh.

My third attempt succeeded in not being twisted.  But after a few rounds, I noticed a section of about 10-20 stitches where the rib was offset.  Although I can usually fix those pretty easily, there were a few rounds that would need to be fixed, with some risk of unraveling all the way down into the cast-on.  And I wasn't willing to live with it.

I give up.

I took it all out.  I will choose a different yarn and see if that works any better.  As before, the first step is to swatch.  I expect about 4 st/in for the batch of handspun I'm going to try next -- it's somewhere in the worsted-Aran-bulky continuum.

Feather and Fan Hobbit Shawl (aka F&F Travel Shawl)

I'm on the third (of 4) skeins of yarn, as of the middle of row 95.  This project may not last long enough to be a proper travel project!  That's OK -- it's still a nice shawl (though on the small side) and it gets 200g of yarn out of my stash.

The name of the colorway is Middle Earth, and thus I'm mentally calling this the Hobbit Shawl.

Lavori 07/30

I'm playing with charts to see what the problematic area of hex mesh will need to do in order to behave in a relatively orderly manner for the rest of the pattern.  The doily is sitting at round 164, as charted, while I figure things out.  I'll be fine for rounds 165, 167, and 169 if I follow the chart for the second rep of the hex mesh (i.e. mentally adding a hex mesh motif for the first part of the chart).

But then things get weird in round 173.  The hex mesh has to absorb the leaf tips while staying more or less in pattern.  Also, one side of the hex mesh in round 173 has a yarnover between the hex mesh and the next left, and the other doesn't.  One of those is wrong, independent of what I end up doing to accommodate the extra hex mesh motif.

I'm sure some people could fix this on the fly.  Not me, though.  And my confidence was shaken by my carelessness in my first attempt, where I overlooked a critical detail.  I'm charting more carefully now.  And hopefully I'll have the sense to test my fix before committing to the many many stitches per round of the actual doily.

I want to start knitting on it again, though!  I'm starting to get close to the end!  Well, at least in number of rounds left to go.

100 posts

Hmm, blogger says that this is post 101 for this blog.  At least one of them is a draft that never saw the light of day, so I guess this is really post 100, or if not, then close to it.  Yay, me!

I don't really have much to say about it.  This blog started as a way to write about doilies and share pics.  Then it morphed into a general knitting and spinning blog, though again kind of geared towards an audience.  I was a very minor player in the greater doily-knitting and lace-knitting blog ecosystem.

Then the blog went dead for a decade.

Now I'm back.  I'm posting again.  This is still a general knitting/spinning/yarn-fun blog, though I'm trying to make sure there is regular or at least semi-regular doily content.  I've been knitting doilies for all those years even if I wasn't blogging about them, after all!  But it's more of a journal for my own use rather than something aimed outwards.

I'm writing more about day-to-day progress.  More ruminations that are kind of clueless as I stumble along towards enlightenment.  More about plans and ideas and anything else that enters my mind.  I'm trying to include more pics even though I still suck as a photographer.

Any readers I once had are long gone, probably.  Blogs are a thing of the past, a very minor waypoint in the vast social media universe.  Even mailing lists, another formerly active environment for inspiring fiber-related content, are tiny compared to their former glories.  So maybe it is a good time to quietly creep back in, with no further ambition than having a place to write boring prose about knitting, spinning, dyeing, and now weaving, for as long as I feel the urge to do so.

We'll see if I make it to 200 posts and if I can do it without another decade-long hiatus.

Lavori 07/30 regress report

I think I'm probably gonna back out my changes to round 163 and 165.  I'll follow the second charted rep for rounds 165/167/169.  Round 171 will have one extra hex mesh motif.  I'll keep following the same decrease pattern and do my kludging at the end.

This means I'll have a few more stitches than charted for some of those rounds.  Dunno if that'll do anything to the way the blocked doily is distorted in that area.

Why I'm doing it -- I'd like a clean finish to this area of hex mesh.  I'd like the edge decreases to be symmetric and consistently angled (though a consistent rate of decreases isn't going to be all that noticeable).  I'd like to finish the hex mesh area with a single motif of k2t-yox2-skp rather than yo-skp-k2t-yo.  Also, I believe (hopefully correctly) that it might be easier to adjust in the area where the hex mesh transitions of a column of yo-sk2p-yo.

So.  This is the problem:  In round 163, there are 7 reps of the hex mesh motif.  The decrease pattern supports the typical thing of reducing one hex mesh motif per pattern round, alternating k2t-yox2-skp with yo-skp-k2t-yo.

As charted, this does not work.  I can make the stitch count work (which I did with my original changes).  But then I'm offset on the hex mesh.  That cascades upward.

The symmetry means that I should be going from 7 reps, 6, 5, 4, etc., with the odd numbers being k2t-yox2-skp and the evens being yo-skp-k2t-yo.  Round 171 compared to round 163 means that one of these is missing, that I go 7, 5, 4, 3, etc., with 6 being missing.

So I'm going to go back.  I'll have one more hex mesh motif than charted in 171.  But hopefully I can at that point continue to decrease in pattern, so that I end up with a final section of k2t-yox2-skp before the final double-decreases that close the section.  I might have to be a little bit creative with edge decreases and how they merge with the leaf tip closures, too.  I also see a few symmetry inconsistencies that will probably turn out to be chart typos in addition to all of that.

I might be cussing at myself by the time I reach round 180 or so, but I'm already cussing at myself at round 167.

If I go back to round 164 (and re-pick up the second yarnover at the edges of the hex mesh sections), then this is a doily regress report.  If I do the smart thing and test out a few ideas in actual needle and yarn before committing to anything, then this is a doily hiatus report.

In other yarn news, the travel shawl project is almost at the end of the second skein of yarn.  It's not going to be a very large shawl, apparently.  Oh, well.  I'll block it a bit bigger and it'll be more of a shawlette than an encompassing giant shawl like the alpaca one I finished a while back.

My weaving is going reasonably well, too.  I'm gradually getting more consistent and a bit faster.

On arrogance (aka pride goeth before a fall)

I put my fix in place for the Lavori 07/30 doily -- dropping the double-yarnover from round 163, and turning the edge stitches in round 165 also into the double decrease with one yarnover.

The number of stitches matches up for what I need for round 167.  (I'll have to move the last stitch of 166 to the beginning of 167, but that's something that the chart didn't note, either, when it disappears from the end of the chart before beginning 169.)

However, even though I have the right number of stitches, I don't think it's set up properly for the hex mesh pattern.

Ugh.  I really should have done a little knitted sample to make sure it would work.  Why didn't I even notice this earlier while I was charting things out on graph paper?

I guess I'll probably continue kludging my way upward in the pattern until I can get it to align properly.  Round 173 is the point where it would be nice to have it match if I can't get it there by round 171.

Part of the problem is how the hex mesh is aligned on each row and how many reps there are (kind of an even/odd/symmetry thing).

I had felt very smug, and now I feel like an idiot.  Not the first time, and no doubt not the last.  But it's still kind of humbling each time it happens.

Now to figure out what to do for round 167, and its effects on round 169 and then 171.  Harumph.  I'll take out rounds of knitting if I have to, as far back as necessary, but only if it helps.  I'd rather kludge my way forward if possible.

Maybe this is part of why some Niebling patterns are really strange in their hex mesh edge effects.

Ah, well.  I'll try to remain humble.  No doubt this doily will provide more lessons to remind me.

First baby steps in weaving

My first weaving project on the Tia rigid heddle loom

The Tia loom is warped and I'm weaving.  Yikes!

The above pic is the loom with the warp wound on the back.  The loops from the direct warping haven't yet been cut, meaning that the yarn is doubled in the slits but nothing is in the holes.

The above pic shows the warp fully sleyed through the heddle and tied onto the front.  I didn't bother with a surgeon's knot, just a plain bow knot of the sort used to tie shoes.  I did 8 threads per bundle since that's about an inch.  The last bits of that skein of Sugar n Cream were just sitting there, so I ran it through the base of the warp to help start spreading things out more evenly, and also to double-check that things were more or less doing what they ought to in terms of what threads were where, did the heddle do anything useful, was the tension more or less OK, and stuff like that.

And here's the first bits of weaving I've done as well as the first weaving I've done on this loom.  The angle of the pic is funny so not all the details are visible or the perspective is weird, that sort of thing.

The red cotton is a little thinner than the white.  So although the weave looks balanced and seems to be pretty close to balanced when I measure the picks per inch, when I look more closely it's slightly warp-faced.  Every now and then I don't quite pack it evenly, so there will be a little stripe of white or red.  Eh, I don't care.  I'll see how it looks when off the loom and finished.  It seems awfully gauzy for now, but I'm under the impression that's kind of normal.

It's taking a few inches for me to figure out how tight to keep things so the selvedges look OK, not too loose and not too tight.  In spite of that, the edges are really surprisingly straight, not pulling in or anything.  I'm sure they aren't professional grade or anything, but for beginner edges, they're not too bad.

In the first few picks, I sometimes improperly skipped over or under a warp thread.  Hopefully I can keep better track of this so I can fix problems quickly.  For the very beginning of the cloth, where the warp is still finding its happy spacing, I don't really care.

It looks a bit different depending on the angle -- more red or more white, depending.

I'm not sure how tight a tension this loom will hold.  But it seems OK.  It's not uber-tight tension but the warp doesn't seem to be loosening as I weave or anything.

Yay.  I'll keep weaving and will no doubt learn more things as I continue with this first project.

----------------------

Sweater project

I was swatching for the upcoming sweater today.  Last time I knit with the fuzzy gray handspun, I got 4.5 st/in on 3.25mm needles.  Today, I'm getting 4 st/in on 3mm needles.  Sigh.  The fabric seems fine, not too loose nor uber-stiff.  If I go down too much more in needle size, the stitches all start splitting and being difficult.  Also, I need to have enough different needle lengths for both the sweater body and the ribbing.

So.  Maybe this particular ball is a little thicker than some of the others, and the real gauge over several skeins of yarn ends up averaging about 4.5 st/in.  Or the fuzzy yarn fills in the spaces, the way mohair does, and it's really effectively closer to worsted weight yarn.  Or I'm just knitting more loosely these days.  Or I'm using a different tape measure that doesn't match the tape measure I used earlier, and my gauge is really the same.

Also, gauge swatches always lie.  Maybe they don't for some people, but I don't have a good track record of getting them to match the garment gauge even though I don't think I'm doing anything different when I make the gauge swatch.

I'll probably cast on a likely number of stitches and get started.  The lower part of the sweater will be my gauge swatch.  I'm not bothered by knitting and then unraveling a few thousand stitches if I don't like how it's going.  Depending on the real gauge vs the swatch gauge, I can do some discreet increases or decreases.  Or I can make this for someone else -- I know a few people who'd be delighted to have one of my handknit sweaters.

Lavori 07/30

It's time to test my potential chart fix.  I want to be making progress on this doily!

F&F Travel Shawl

Growing nicely.  I'm on the second ball of yarn, and doing 3 sets of feather and fan on each half of the shawl.  It is still a very reasonable combination of yarn, pattern, needle size, etc.

Spinning

Nothing new has been started yet.

Thinking out loud and counting stitches (Lavori 07/30)

Lavori 07/30 doily progress/discussion

I'm finally playing around with the chart for Lavori 07/30, to figure out what needs to happen in the area with hex mesh, to get from the stitch count of round 163 to the stitch count of round 171.

As discussed in the last post, the chart as written does not work.  The first rep of round 165 is consistent with the stitches needed by round 171, but is not consistent with the existing number of stitches from round 163.  The second rep of round 165 is the opposite -- it is consistent with the stitches of round 163 but not consistent with what I'll need in round 171.  The second charted section has one extra repeat of hex mesh compared to the first charted section.

Both of them need to be the same at this point since the chart already unofficially has 12 pattern repeats per round (2 repeats charted, in the current 6PR/rnd chart) and will officially transition to a chart that is explicitly a 12 PR/rnd chart on round 171.

So I'm counting beginning and ending stitches for that section of rounds 163, 165, 167, 169, and 171.  I've knit through round 164, but can do some small stitch adjustments and/or will take out as many rounds as I need to in order to make it work.  Yes, all 800+ stitches per round, bleh.

One thing I've noticed from the magazine photos (the cover and page 17) is that the stitches there are very distorted at this point.  The outer fans will soon start, the leaf motifs will separate into two (surrounding the fans), and the hex mesh will continue to decrease at both edges.  The stacked increases and decreases distort the fabric in ways that mostly enhance the overall aesthetics of the design.  They exist whether or not they're aesthetic, of course.

Anyway, this distortion is happening right where the hex mesh is.  Which means that any fix I do doesn't need to be perfect.  It won't be all that obvious given all the other stuff going on at the moment.

The above photo from page 17 shows the approximate area (circled in red).

And the above shows the photo from the front cover.  It's kind of hard for me to see exactly how many repeats of hex mesh there are and whether all of the holes are single or double yarnovers and whether edge decreases are single or double decreases.  It's also not at all clear to me what the test knitters did to make the pattern work.  Whatever they decided didn't end up in the published charts, apparently!

I'm sure there are people who could look at the photos and see what was going on, but I'm not one of them.  Not yet.  I do know that doily charts can have a lot of weirdness that is not very noticeable, especially after the doily is finished and blocked, and that's even in areas where the fabric is not distorted.

By round 171 -- the section of hex mesh starts with 14 stitches.  (I don't care how it ends because that's not my current problem)

Round 169 (using the first chart, since it's where I need to be for round 171 to work) -- it ends with 14 stiches, check.  It starts with 18.

Round 167 -- It ends with 18 stitches.  It starts with 22.

Round 165, which is where I am now.  The first section ends with 22 stitches.  It starts with 24.

Round 163 ends with 28.  So I have to do something to get to 14 stitches by round 171, and preferably 22 stitches by the time I start round 167.  I essentially need to make one more repeat of hex mesh (4 stitches) go away in a visually unobtrusive way over the next few rounds.

So.  Round 163 starts and ends with a double decrease and 2 yarnovers.  If I drop one yarnover at each end (which I can do easily, since the slightly loose stitch in round 164 will disappear when being blocked), then I'm down to 26 stitches.  (This changes the edge stitches to a single yarnover and a double decrease.)

For round 165, we now have 26 stitches to start the round.  The edge stitches for the hex mesh in round 165 are charted as / \ o o / ... \ o o / \.  After dumping one of the yarnovers from round 163, it's easy to change the / \ to a double decrease.

However, if I merely change the last couple of stitches to a double decrease, I only get to 24 stitches by the end of the round.  I'd like to get all the way to 22 if possible since there isn't a lot of wiggle room in the next few rounds.

If I change the last few stitches of round 165 to a double decrease and 1 yarnover (as I'm doing for round 163), that should get me down to 22 for round 167.  And then we're good.

I will probably check this out with a mini-swatch to make sure the numbers work and nothing looks too obviously stupid.  I don't know if there was a better way to have done it starting in some earlier round, but I'm obviously working under the constraint of not wanting to take out and re-chart and re-do thousands of stitches.

F&F Shawl -- making progress!  I'm on the second of four skeins of yarn, starting at around row 66 or 67 or so.  This means the shawl will be roughly 130-ish rounds before binding off.  I still like how the variegation is interacting with the pattern.  Unless things change, I'm committed to the project, yay!

Sweater -- still in the planning stages, but I'm inching closer.  Current plan is Appledore-ish gansey with fuzzy gray handspun.  Simple seed or moss or betty martin stitch should show up OK even without really sharp stitch definition.  I last knit it at 4.5 st/in, but might do a swatch on smaller needles to see if I can easily get it tighter and if I can, if I like the fabric of the tighter gauge.  If I have less of this yarn thank I think I have, I can do 3/4 or shorter sleeves.

Rigid Heddle Loom Weaving

I've decided that I'll use this blog for weaving posts since weaving uses yarn in similar ways and similar quantities to how knitting uses it.  And also because weaving might be a good way to use bits and bobs of handspun that are too small or ugly or rough to use for the kinds of projects I usually knit.  If I end up doing a lot of weaving or acquire and start using a bigger loom, then I'll probably just start up a new blog devoted to weaving.

I have stopped circling the newly-acquired vintage rigid heddle loom and started working with it.  This will be my first-ever real-loom project.  I don't count tablet or inkle weaving since those, in my brain, are narrow wares rather than real weaving.  I also don't count the small amount of backstrap weaving I've done with either small rigid heddles or string heddles since those projects are closer to narrow wares than a piece of cloth.

When I picked up the latest rescue wheel, the person asked if I also wanted a similar-vintage rigid heddle loom, too.  I said "sure!" since, well, fiber-equipment rescue means that I say yes to just about any working piece of equipment that fits in my very strict budget (and my car).

The pic below is the loom as I received it.  It's a Northfield Tia Rigid Heddle Loom from the mid-1970s.  It has a 20-inch weaving width (about 22 inches overall) and an 8-dent heddle.  The sides are plastic.

There's also a rod that came with the loom, notched every 1/2".  I have no idea what this is since it didn't come with the original loom (as I can tell from looking at internet photos of etsy and ebay sales of the loom in its box).  So it's either from some other loom or weaving equipment entirely, or it was used for some random purpose that isn't obvious.  I'm tentatively planning on using it as a stick to hold a string heddle if I want to do any fancy weaving.

None of the original shuttles were still with the loom, but the person from whom I got it threw in a couple of extra stick shuttles that were lying around.  Good enough for now!

Dang, weaving has lots of jargon.  And dang, I know and understand a lot more of it than I did a few years ago.  I'm probably still moderately incorrect at times.

As you can see, there's a project already on the loom, a very weft-faced fabric that uses every slot and hole in the heddle.  Many of the warp threads are snapped.

I need to get a new photo of what things look like now.

The old project is off the loom.  Cut cut cut unroll untie discard etc.  The loom has been dusted and wiped down with a damp paper towel to get off old spiderwebs and bugs.

And I've warped for my first project.

Most of the stuff I've read says that an 8-dent reed/heddle is suitable for worsted weight yarn.  I found a skein of Sugar n Cream in my oddballs stash so that's what I'm using.  (I found another worsted-weight cotton to use for weft.)

I decided to start with half the width (slots 20-60-ish, or 80 ends) and about 2 yards-ish for warp length.  Good thing I didn't try for anything wider -- that's as far as the warp skein went!  There's only a few yards left, not even enough to have gone for 82 ends.

I did a direct warp, mostly because I've not done one before.

The warp is wound onto the back beam, with leftover one-sided scrap used between layers of warp.  (One-sided scrap is what we call 8.5" x 11" copy paper that is in the recycle bin.)  I had some help with this -- someone held the warp at a gentle tension while I wound it on.

Next up will be cutting the front of the warp and moving half the threads from the slots to the holes.  Sley away!

I'm sure the first project will suck in all the usual beginner ways.  Eh, I don't care.  We all start at white belt.  In other words, you can't get better without starting where you are.  As with my first sprang project, my first tablet-weaving, my first doily -- they might not be terribly complex nor expertly executed, but I'll still be thrilled.  And hopefully I'll keep practicing until I become competent.

If the first piece doesn't suck too badly, I might try to turn it into a bag or some other semi-useful item.  Otherwise, I'll throw it into the sampler/prototype box.

Hopefully I'll remember to take more pics as I finish the warping process and start weaving.  At some point, I'll write more about the rescue wheel, too.

Progress and no-progress reports on various projects

I'm blathering about several things in this post, so what the heck, let's use some bolded sub-headings so I can find them later.  (or so that the Imaginary Reader can skip anything too boring, assuming that they want to read any of this at all)

Doily Non-Progress Report

Lavori 07/30 is still sitting in time-out, waiting for me to look closely at the chart and count stitches and then re-chart the problem section for the next three pattern rounds.

Here's a pic of what it looked like after round 163:

I'm getting close to done with the current partial ball of thread.  I still haven't unraveled and re-skeined the little section of filet crochet that I cut off the partial ball earlier so I won't worry about that for now.  Next up is another partial ball of thread.  After that, I have a set of 3 full balls of thread left, each 350 yards.  I'm kind of hoping I won't need to use any of those, and that the remaining partial ball (from a ball that was originally 500 yards) might be enough to get to the end of the doily, even if I have to reclaim the little bit of filet crochet.  I'm probably fooling myself, though, and will probably end up cracking at least one of the full balls.  However, I'm not likely to need all three of them, whew, meaning that I did have enough of this stuff to do a 200+ round doily.  Fingers crossed and all that.

I have no idea how much thread I've used already since I've started with all the partial balls.  I'll weigh it afterwards and estimate the yardage from the weight.  Ravelry tells me that 250 yards weighs 18 grams, more or less.

Travel Knitting Project

My feather-and-fan shawl is going well.  I'm nearing the end of the first skein already.  Yikes!  This means it probably won't be much bigger than a shoulder shawl, though blocking might help a bit.  That's because using 1/4 of the yarn means the shawl is half the size it will be when done, and I'm gonna reach that point relatively soon.  Also, it's not going to be a good travel knitting project for long at this rate!

Here is a recent-ish photo:

There's a blurry image of a cat in the lower right corner of the pic -- a black long-haired cat with a few white whiskers.  She was zooming over to sit on the shawl when I took the photo.

Spinning (wheel evaluation skein is finished!)

I finally plied the evaluation skein for my new rescue wheel.  I used the Fricke and it all fit on one bobbin.

There's roughly 360 yards of 2-ply, roughly 3.5 oz.  The fiber was sold to me as a 4-oz bag, so either there's some humidity loss or my postal scale isn't accurate or they didn't tare the bag, or something.  They're a reputable vendor so I am assuming there's some innocuous reason.

As yarn goes, it's not great stuff.  The fiber consisted of little bits and pieces of various things rather than being one batt or one long strip of roving.  It wasn't much fun to spin and the 2-ply is kind of eh, too.

I can tell the difference between the early and late-spun singles, as the rescue wheel was getting smoother and more consistent.

Dunno what I'll do with this yarn.  Maybe when I learn to use the rescue rigid heddle loom, all my ugly yarn will get turned into fabric for bags or rugs or something.  Or I'll knit it into a toy or a bag or a cat bed, something where looks and feel aren't too important.

I'm glad the fiber is out of my stash.  It has been annoying me ever since I brought two bags of this home (in two different colorways/blends) and realized that it wasn't a single well-blended batt as I had assumed.  Maybe it was intended for felters rather than spinners.  Whatever.  I won't buy it again.

Now I get to decide what fiber and what wheel to use for the next spinning project, yay!

The new wheel could use a little bit more cleaning and playing around with, but it's already making very decent yarn.  I'm not sure if I'll use it or one of my other wheels for the next project.  Probably a different wheel -- I don't want my wheels to feel unloved, so I try to use most of them on a semi-regular basis.

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Appledore Gansey Thoughts and Planning

I'm getting more serious about starting a gansey, and in particular, an Appledore-ish sweater.  It won't be a true gansey, since it won't be form-fitting nor knitted at 7-8 stitches per inch from fine, smooth yarn.  I've been going back through the links and books and what-not I saved from last time to re-acquaint myself with what I had been thinking back then, as well as what I'm thinking about it all now.  It's fun to find some new resources, too.

Once I decide on a yarn and possibly a recipient (if I don't just make it for myself), I'll work out the necessary schematics and stitch numbers and cast on.

I'll definitely want to keep track of the Real Gauge, try on the sweater early and often, and be prepared to rip and re-do as necessary.  Usually I start with a sleeve, both because it's easier to work around small gauge differences between the swatch and the real thing, and because it's not too much of a time investment to rip and re-do a sleeve.  However, ganseys usually finish with the sleeves rather than starting with them, and I'm not planning on doing otherwise.  So I'll dive into the body and see how it goes.  I already unraveled the first iteration of this sweater, so what's one more unraveling?

I'll do k1p1 for the ribbing at all edges, probably on a smaller needle, and quite possibly (at least for the lower edge and sleeve cuffs) on a smaller number of stitches than the stockinette body/sleeves.

I'll keep one purl stitch for the side, which will of course continue down the underside of the sleeves.

I need to look at PGR and EZ and BBR, etc., for typical percentages for drop-shoulder armhole depth.  The gusset will start about 2" below the armhole split, and should increase 2 stitches every 4th round, to end up at roughly 2" wide by the time the split is reached.  If one reaches 2" wide before 2" high, then a few extra rounds without increases are called for.  There's a post on one of the Facebook groups about the Appledore gansey pattern that's in Prangs, Tacks, and Frocks by John Whitlock and Josephine Sims, and that seems to be what the sample pattern in the booklet calls for.  I'll probably mirror the sleeve gusset so that it too will be about 2" deep by the time it's decreased away.

I'm not sure yet if I'll do seed stitch, moss stitch, or Betty Martin for the shoulders.  I've seen those variations and more in the old photos and other people's patterns and projects.  I won't have as many rows to work with given my probable gauge, so keeping it simple is probably better.  The Prangs, Tacks, and Frocks booklet uses seed stitch, I believe, given the photo of the finished sweater in the Facebook post I saw.  The sweater (and pattern) in Rae Compton's book (Traditional Guernsey and Jersey Knitting) calls for moss stitch and also might have deeper bands of reverse stockinette.  I believe that Compton's pattern calls for reverse stockinette -- moss - rev st - a row or two of stockinette, and then mirrored on the other side.  The 3-needle-BO seems to be where the shoulder strap abuts the back.  In the PTF booklet, I can't tell for sure yet, but it looks like both front and backs have a strap (half as wide as Compton's) and they do the 3NBO where the straps join?

It's nothing to worry about yet.  And seeing different versions makes me more confident in choosing to do whatever works best for my own purposes.

Hmm, I wonder if I can still acquire a copy of Prangs, Tacks, and Frocks?

Yarn.  That's often the most dither-y part of the project, sigh.  Fuzzy gray handspun that probably knits up at 4.5 st/in?  Valley Yarns, where the choices are a fairly smooth worsted weight or a very smooth sock weight (that I would knit 2-stranded at 5 st/in because I don't yet want to knit an adult-size sweater at 7 st/in)?  Something else, which requires me to go stash-diving to see what I have?  My handspun tends to be fuzzy, which might or might not matter given the simplicity of this gansey.  I'll have to see what else there is in the commercial-yarn stash that might work if the above options aren't sufficient.

And so on.

It's possible I'll be overcome with decision analysis paralysis or get distracted by something else completely, but this is still a fun exercise.

I do want to do a Staithes-style seeds-and-bars aka Harry Freeman gansey someday.  But right now I want the soothing vast expanses of stockinette knitting that the Appledore gansey showcases.

And that's enough verbiage for this post.

Lavori 07/30 progress and the next set of chart errors

I'm still slowly making progress on Lavori 07/30.  I'm definitely in the section where there are already 12 repeats per round, meaning that the chart (at 6 pattern repeats per round) repeats the same sequence of stitches.  This makes it easier to keep track of things and also to spot errors.  There are over 800 stitches per round now.  The flower is long gone; it's just the hex mesh and leaf motifs now.

Here are the next two chart errors.  I could have put them in my previous post but was hoping to wait until the post where I finally did jump to the next chart (at round 171).

Round 159:  After the first set of leaves (and the skp, k3, k2t that finishes it off), the stitches at the beginning of the stretch of hex mesh are charted as yo, skp, k2t.  This should be symmetric with all the others, and the skp should be a double-decrease (sk2p, left-leaning to preserve symmetry).

Round 163:  In the first set of leaves, the last leaf is missing a yarnover.  It should be (k4, yo, k-tbl, yo, k4) like all the other leaves.

Now I am on round 165 and have discovered a true chart error.  All of the previous ones have been fairly obvious typos, but this one is a little more complex.

The first set of hex mesh motifs shows 5 repeats of the motif, while the second shows 6 repeats.  The first set does not match the stitch counts for round 163.  The second set does.  However, the first set, going upwards through round 169, does match the stitch count needed for round 171.  The second set, therefore, does not.

Sigh.

There are decreases at each end of the hex mesh motifs.  I believe that if I change them from single to double decreases, that the stitch counts will work out.  The first set on the chart will work as charted from then on.  The second set will match the first set.

I need to do some charting and very careful stitch counting before I continue.  If necessary, I can also involve the edge double-yarnovers that are next to the double decreases in round 163 and change them to single yarnovers by dropping the second yarnover.  I'll see what seems to work best to make sure I reach round 171 with the correct number and arrangement of hex-mesh motifs.

I can also see that there is something weird at the end of round 167/169.  There's a double decrease at the end of round 167 that just sort of disappears in round 169.  There are no move-the-marker symbols on the chart at that point but I suspect that the last stitch of round 167/168 does move to the beginning of round 169.  Then, of course, the problem will be moving to round 167 instead of round 169 depending on what I do at the end of round 165 (since I'm probably changing the skp at the end of round 165 to a double decrease).

On the bright side, the leaf motif sections for the next few rounds appear to be charted correctly, no missing yarnovers or anything.

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I did start a new travel project!  It is indeed the F&F half-square triangle shawl I mentioned in the last post.  Instead of handspun, I'm using a batch of commercial yarn from the stash.  It's a smooth variegated light-worsted-weight yarn.  I have 4 balls of it, between 450 and 500 yards.  I like it so far.  I had thought to use this yarn in a Wingspan shawl, but that was a few years ago.  I'll be happy to have it out of my stash as long as the yarn and pattern are a good combo, which so far they seem to be.

I'm dithering a bit about sweaters again.  This time it's the simple gansey projects I had done some research on a few years ago -- the Appledore gansey and/or Harry Freeman's "seeds and bars" gansey.  The Appledore gansey/jersey is a classic gansey in its construction, but the only decoration is on the shoulder straps.  Harry Freeman's gansey has several horizontal bands of simple moss or seed stitch patterning, separated by bands of garter or reverse stockinette.  The Harry Freeman gansey is a very popular and widespread style with a lot of simple variations, and even Mr. Freeman himself had several slightly different versions in his sweater wardrobe.

There is a pattern given for an Appledore gansey in Rae Compton's book on traditional gansey/jersey knitting.  I had adapted it for my size and for a big batch of handspun I wanted to use, and had gotten as far as the armholes when I decided I didn't like how it was turning out.  So maybe I'll try again, not following any specific pattern but just kind of winging it.  I have several books that discuss ganseys in addition to general sweater construction plus the resources of the internet.  I also have several sweater-sized yarn batches, both handspun and commercial, in various yarn weights.

Although I like the seeds and bars patterns, I'm not sure what yarn I'd want to use.  Plus I'm not sure it would be flattering on me.

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I still haven't plied the yarn spun on the new rescue wheel.  Maybe this afternoon.  Then it might be time to clean and warp the rescued rigid heddle loom.  I think I've already written about that a bit.  I'm still trying to decide if general weaving posts will go on this blog or on another fiber blog.

No photos for this post!  Maybe I'll add something later, but chances are that it'll wait to the next post.