Fun with natural dyes

The colors on my pics and on the screen aren't quite right (not rich enough), but it still conveys a lot.

This is my share of the dyed goods from a natural dyeing session I did with some friends last weekend.

My skeins are wool, roughly 100g each, roughly fingering weight.  My friends had their own skeins along with some pieces of fabric in wool and in linen.  It totaled up to I don't know how many pounds/kilograms of stuff.

The wool was mordanted a few weeks ago with alum and cream of tartar.  We weren't hugely consistent in our mordanting technique, as I wrote about in a recent post.  But as you can see, everything took the dye quite well.  The linen, since it wasn't mordanted, was destined for the indigo pots.

The yellow is from marigolds.  One of the group grew marigolds last summer and froze a bunch of flowers.  The dye was extracted with a long simmer and the petals strained out.

We weren't too careful in our dyeing technique.  Mostly, people wetted the yarn/fabric, dropped it in the pot, stirred it a bit, then after a little while took it out, wrung out excess dye, and hung it up to dry.  Then someone else would put something in the pot, etc.

Much later, after we got our stuff home, everything was rinsed.

Anyway, the first yellow that came out of the marigolds was a rich color -- sort of a bronze-y mustard-y russet-y yellow.

Mine is more of a lemon/banana yellow.  Later things dyed were even lighter yellows.  We didn't do any ammonia/water afterdips (or any post-mordanting, or anything at all, really) to modify colors.

The oranges are madder.  We meant to add calcium but forgot, so ended up with more orange than red, though one of my skeins (which was in the dyebath longer) has some areas that are more red.

The blues are all indigo, though the lightest one (next to the orange madder skeins) was dyed light yellow before it had a quick dip in the indigo.

I was trying for an indigo gradient, both with repeated dips (for darker colors), and quicker dips, and dips at various portions of the afternoon, in hopes that lighter colors would happen as the indigo got exhausted.  Well, it never really got exhausted, apparently!  We used indigo extract and will take that into account for our next dye day.  Ditto for the madder pot, which also used extract rather than us prepping whole roots, and which was still giving excellent color all the way through the day.

I wonder if part of why the indigo hit so quickly and well was due to the skeins being mordanted?  Dunno if that makes a difference for indigo.

We will probably get together again for more dye days, both natural and synthetic dyes.  We're also considering a weed walk, where we go after invasive/noxious weeds and plentiful non-noxious weeds to acquire materials for our dyepots.  We'd still use indigo and madder extracts, but we should be able to get a range of yellows and browns and russets/olives etc. from the local flora.  We'll see.

Rinsing off was rather messy.  I still have indigo on my fingernails since I wasn't wearing gloves when I rinsed them.  I did wear them during the dyeing.

I'm not sure what I'll do with my dyed yarn.  Tablet weaving, maybe?  Or other weaving?  Give them away to friends?  Dunno.  One of them (not pictured above) already went home with one of the other dyers, since that person has some Ideas of Things To Try..

Anyway, much fun was had.  It's been a long time since I've done much natural dyeing.  It's always more fun to do dyeing with friends.

A finished item! (the crocheted charity baby blanket)

Ooh, a post for May!  And it's an actual blog-related accomplishment!

The baby blanket I've been working on for a while is finished.  I handed it over before measuring the amount of yarn I used, but at least I got a photo!

It took a while to decide on an edging.  I ended up doing two single crochets in each gap all the way around, and then did a round of reverse crab stitch (putting the hook between the single crochets of the previous round because I'm lazy that way).

It still slightly ruffles, but it's better than some of my other attempts at a border, which either ruffled or pulled in or both (ruffle on the sides, pull in on the ends, or vice versa).

It's small, probably less than 30" square, but reasonable enough.  And it's pretty cute.

I like the variegation combined with the texture and the slight bling of the mylar.  Hopefully the recipient will like it, too.

I could have taken more yarn for another baby blanket, but I took some darker blue acrylic instead and will knit another hat or two for either this charity or a different charity.  Then maybe I'll do another crocheted baby blanket.

(The blanket is going to a local organization that works with women and children.)

My pink shawl is continuing to make progress, yay!

My green sweater is not, boohoo!

And I haven't yet started another project in any of the crafts that I write about on this blog.

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I did get together with friends last week to mordant some wool for an upcoming natural dye day.  We just did alum plus cream of tartar.

Since we all had different backgrounds in dyeing, we all had some different experiences with quantities.  How much alum and cream of tartar does one need?  What is the actual procedure for mordanting?  If you want to refresh a mordant solution to mordant additional goods, how much do you need to add to refresh?  Which alum, in particular, since different chemicals in the same family may share the name "alum" when we go to buy them?

It turns out that there are many answers to these questions.

Which means that it's a pretty forgiving process.

And I guess we'll see what happens when we do Round 2 -- Dye Day!

The longer answer is that every good dyeing book and reputable website (reputable meaning that they sell dyes and mordants and aren't just AI hallucinations or twee misinformation from people without much experience) has a slightly different method with slightly different percentages and what-not.

Anywhere from about 5-20% WOF is suggested for alum, with many clustering around 15%, and with several sources warning that too much (i.e. over about 20%) will mess up the wool.  The percentages weren't significantly different for the different types of alum that are commonly found through natural dyeing supply shops.

Cream of tartar is used to acidify the bath and reduce chances of stickiness and is usually suggested at around 5-6% WOF (and often said not to be necessary or desirable for mordanting silk).

Refresh amounts range from one-quarter to one-half for the alum, with no refresh needed for the cream of tartar, and some also suggested using a hydrometer to calculate appropriately.  Some said to discard the bath if it got cloudy or had precipitates in it, while others said it made no difference.

Time and temperature were all over the place, though all agreed that keeping the bath at a simmer or below was preferable.  Some suggested that the goods should simmer for anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour and then cool in the mordanting bath overnight, while others didn't seem to care.  Some people had good luck with room-temperature mordanting (a cold soak of several days to a month) while others didn't.

I have heard that the post-mordanting treatment can affect the results, too.  Do you dye right away?  Keep the skeins damp (but not moldy)?  Let them dry and store them?  Put them in the refrigerator or freezer?  I have no idea what effect, if any, these variables would have on the dyeing.  We won't be dyeing for at least another week, so we know these particular skeins will be stored for a while before getting dyed.  I don't think we have enough dyestuffs to require us mordanting up anything more for this round.  And I don't recall anything weird from former dye days where we mordanted in one pot, pulled the skeins out of the mordanting bath, and then dropped them into the dyebath.  So who knows?

I am not a professional dyer and don't care if I have a fully repeatable process or get any specific colors.  As long as I end up with interesting and colorful yarn (or cloth or roving) at the end, I'm fine.

More of the same

I'm still working on the same things as last month.  Progress?  Yes, some.  But not sufficiently different to provide photos.

The center of my crocheted baby blanket is finished.  Now on to the edging!  Two dcs in each hole (starting along one side) doesn't have the right tension.  I'll try 3, and if that is too much, then I'll alternate 2 and 3.

The pink Miami Vice shawl is making progress, too.  I'm still in the last section of lace.  Once I've done all eleven repeats, I'll decide whether to grow the shawl a bit more or to bind off, and also how I want to bind off.

The sweater sits, alas, taunting me.

And no new doilies are on the needles!  Nor any other knitting!  Nor anything on the rigid heddle loom, nor a spinning wheel.

It's been a hard winter, for many reasons, and that has spilled into spring.  Hopefully things will settle down enough that I can be productive again soon.

Time for another progress report!

 I haven't posted since last month, yikes!

Knitting and what-not is still happening, though I've been very busy with things unrelated to having fun with fiber.

I haven't started any new doilies yet.

My travel shawl is still growing.  I'm on the second (and final) ball of yarn.

I'm not sure how much of it will get used as I finish up the actual pattern.  Then, once the pattern (as written) is finished, and if there is yarn left, I'll need to decide what to do.

I could grow the pattern a bit more -- add another band or two in the same style.

I could add a sideways-knit lace border.

Or, if there's enough yarn left, call it good, and then make a pair of socks or fingerless mitts.

I have no idea how large the shawl will be once it's blocked.  It's kind of a weird little shoulder-sized poncho thing at the moment.

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My sweater has had close to zero progress since the last time I wrote about it.  Hopefully I'll return to it soon since I'd like to get it done.

No pics, because what's the point?

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I have started a new project, though!  It's a crocheted baby blanket.  A friend of mine ended up with a stash of acrylic baby yarn, and asked all of us if we'd like to take some yarn to make baby blankets.  The blankets are destined for a local shelter that serves women with children.

I'm holding two yarns together.  One is something like Woolease, mostly acrylic with a bit of wool, in white with a bit of mylar.  I can't resist the sparkles.  The other is some skinny boucle-ish thing in shades of green and yellow.

I'm doing a very simple pattern.  Chain a likely number of stitches.  Then, all rows are dc, ch1, with the dc going into the space of the ch1 of the previous row.  Once the blanket is roughly square, I'll probably do a round or two of dc for the edging, estimating how many dcs will be needed so that nothing ruffles or binds, and then maybe a round of crab stitch to finish off.  If I'm feeling it, I'll switch to a different yarn for the edging -- that same boucle yarn but in yellow rather than green-and-yellow.

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I went to the first local fiber fair of the season this month.  I hadn't intended to buy anything, but, well, 4 ounces of a pretty gray Romeldale roving followed me home.  It's a blend from several different sheep, white and dark, which overall reads as a medium gray.

I guess I'll need to drag out a spinning wheel and do some spinning in order to keep my fiber stash at steady state or better!

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So there's my relatively meager progress report for the past month or so.

Lavori 07/15

 Lavori 07/15 is finished!

This is an 80 round doily (plus crochet cast-off), 8 pattern repeats per round (and 16 PR/rnd in the outer rounds).  The chart is NOT error free.

Chart Errors:

Round 51:  Towards the end of the repeat, there is a | symbol that should be a double-decrease instead.  It's fairly obvious.

Rounds 57-59 end up having an issue, but it's easily fixed.  Instead of what's charted, do the following:

Round 57: (yo, k1b, yo, k3) all the way across.  (This is how it's charted, but the chart omits one repeat, which ends up affecting how to chart round 59)

Round 59: (sk2p, yo) all the way across  (you could do yo, sk2p instead of sk2p, yo, though that'll affect the next error fix)

And somewhere before round 65:  K 6 more stitches at the end of the round before beginning the next round, so that the first stitch of round 65 is directly over the sk2p of round 59.

This was a reasonably fun doily to knit, though it had way more stitches than seemed necessary by the end.  Perhaps it would have been better doing this with either 6 or 7 pattern repeats per round instead of 8.  Dunno if that would have worked well enough, though, since the number of stitches in the early rounds is just about right.  It's the later rounds where things go wild.

I think it is probably a Herbert Niebling pattern, and if not, then it's a design by someone who used motifs that are characteristically Niebling-esque.  Whatever.  It's a cute doily no matter who the designer was.

The thread was from the thrift store vintage stash.  It was 300 yards of something that seemed like it was roughly #30 in weight.  I ran out in the middle of round 79.  Luckily, the leftovers stash yielded some DMC Cebelia that was sufficiently similar, whew.

Hmm, what doily shall I tackle next?  There are a few more small doilies in Lavori 7 that could be quick to knock out.  There's the old French language non-charted text-only doily I've mentioned before, clearly a Niebling design, that could be interesting to puzzle out.  I could pick another big pattern, or do some designs by Erich Engeln or Christine Duchrow or Marianne Kinzel or one of the other greats.  I guess I'll see what appeals, and also what thread I feel like using.

Other than finishing Lavori 07/15, I've been slowly working on my Miami Vice shawl and my Appledore gansey.  There's not enough progress to be worth sharing.  I've mostly been busy with other things.

A new year, a new doily (and a new post!)

This is another doily in Lavori 7.  This one is Figure 15 Sottovaso.  It has 80 rounds and, as you can see, 8 pattern repeats per round with 16 pattern repeats per round in the outer part of the doily.

It is very silly looking.  So I decided I wanted to make it.

It might be a Niebling pattern, given those outer sets of fans, and also given the silly stuff that happens early on in the doily.

The early doily has several rounds of twisted stitches, which isn't all that unusual, I suppose.  I twisted them in the intermediate rounds since it helps define the columns so well.  And then the columns of twisted stitches turn into columns of crossed stitches.  That (complicated stuff early in the doily, including crossed stitches) is more commonly found in Niebling designs than in patterns known to be created by other designers.  So maybe.

The outer sets of fans are the thing where two or three fan motifs are next to each other with a double yarnover between the fans, as I did in the Lavori 07/30 doily and many others.  As far as I can tell (i.e., from a quick glance), there are no rounds that begin and end with yarnovers.

I rummaged through my collection of vintage threads and found something that might be #30, and, if it's a full rather than a partial ball of thread, might have about 300 yards.  If that's not enough, I found another partial ball (I am nearly 100% sure that's it's partial) of similar-weight thread in a color that's not too different.  I don't care if the outer rounds are slightly different in color from the earlier rounds.

Yesterday was the cast-on day.  Fun fun!

As often happens, I get tired of dpns somewhere in the early slog and try to move to a circular needle a little bit too soon.  So the next few rounds were a bit annoying, as I used variations on the two-circulars and the magic-loop methods until I had enough stitches, and more importantly, enough diameter, to fit on my circular with no more fuss.

I don't always end up doing that, but really, I should know better.  But the dpns kept trying to slither out of the knitted stitches, and it was annoying doing crossed stitches and horizontal-running-thread increases and I wanted to be done with the dpns.

I don't have high hopes for this doily given it's less than well defined motifs in the pic above, but we'll see.  Once I get past the section with so many crossed stitches, the rest seems relatively straightforward and hopefully a bit quicker to knit.

Then I can ruminate on what doily project I might feel like tackling next.

My sweater is growing again -- I'm knitting the back above the armhole.  I'm still vaguely dithering about whether I want to put a couple of short rows in there somewhere.  Quite possibly.  Then I can do the front, and I'll probably do a dropped area in the middle to shape the neck area.  Then the shoulder straps!  Those will require a bit more dithering, too.  I also have to decide how many inches to knit for the front and back before the shoulder straps so that the sweater will fit well and so that the sleeves will have a reasonable number of stitches.

My travel shawl is continuing to grow, too.  Soon I'll be done with the current set of eyelets.  Then it'll be time for another round of increases.  I'm getting close to the end of the first skein of yarn.  It's a bit soon, but I'm already thinking a bit about ways to make the shawl bigger if I still have a lot of yarn left after the official pattern reaches its end.

And that's it for this post!

Possibly the final post for 2025

I think this is post number 50 for the year, which of course means number 50 since I returned to posting on this blog after the decade-long hiatus.

Here's another pic of my recently finished doily.  A place I was visiting had round tables so I draped it over to show off what it looks like when it's actually on a table.  The table would have needed to have been a little bit bigger to display it to perfection, but eh, that's OK.

I finished another charity hat.  This one is black, same pattern and needle size and everything else as I normally do.

This might be my last charity hat for a while until I can acquire more free yarn.  I have partial balls left but not enough to make a full hat with.  Maybe I'll use two strands and fewer stitches and crank out a few more.  We'll see.

Other than that, I've been working on my travel shawl when I'm traveling or at meetings or otherwise need to keep my hands busy.  I've also started to make some progress again on the Appledore gansey now that Lavori 07/30 is finished.  I'd like to get it done this winter so the recipient can get some use out of it while it's cold.  I won't include photos since they look a lot like last month's photos.  I really concentrated on finishing the doily these past few months, to the detriment of everything else.

Since this is quite likely to be the last post of 2025, why not do a bit of rambling about the past year, at least for those things that this blog is occupied with?

I acquired another rescue wheel this year, which came with a rescue rigid heddle loom.  So I did my first-ever rigid heddle weaving project.  The wheel is fixed up and spinning, too -- it's a very nice vintage wheel, very basic and plain but quite serviceable and steady.

I've done other spinning this year, too.  And I've also been knitting with handspun.  The fiber stash is roughly steady-state thanks to a bit of stash acquisition that happened at fiber fairs and elsewhere.  The fiber fairs are always a lot of fun and I like supporting local people, so no regrets even though I don't really need more fiber until after I've spun up some of what I got during my post-COVID restocking spree.

I learned how to do sprang and also explored several new-to-me tablet weaving techniques and braiding techniques.  Those are beyond the scope of this blog, though.

I did some knitting, too.  Duh.  Cat beds, travel shawls, hats, and, of course, doilies.  It was a productive year for doilies, ranging from small and quick to large and more time-consuming.  Hopefully I'll continue to knit doilies next year.  I want to knit some fingerless mitts for a friend so those are on my to-do list for "soon", and I want to finish the sweater I'm knitting so I can knit more.  I might want to knit another cat bed, too.

I ended up not knitting any socks this year.  Sigh.  I really do need to cast on another pair, but keep not doing it.  I like knitting socks but I keep choosing other things when it's time to start a new project.

The people I hang out with for knitting are a delight, as always, and it will bring me great joy to continue hanging out with them.  I still want to get involved with some of the local guilds, though in general, I'm not really a guilds type of person, so who knows?

What do I want to do next year?  The usual.  More doilies, more shawls, more hats, more mittens (and fingerless mitts), more socks, more sweaters, maybe another cat bed, plus anything else that strikes my fancy.  See?  The usual.

For spinning -- continue spinning, and continue using my handspun.  I think that some of my handspun would work very well for weaving if I feel like rigging up a loom.  What would I use the cloth for, though?  All I can think of is stuff like blankets.  I have no real interest in table runners or towels or placemats, nor do I need any woven scarves.  I don't want to make clothes from my handspun, I don't think.  Rugs could be fun but I'd probably need a sturdier loom than the little plastic vintage or really any kind of rigid heddle loom.  Hmm.

I'll try not to buy any spinning wheels this year, though no promises should something come my way.  I'd like to sell some of my rescued wheels that I don't use very often -- they deserve to be in the hands of people who will use them more regularly.

Maybe this will be the year I start dyeing again.  We'll see!  And hopefully I'll continue posting on this blog.

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Apparently Barbara Walker passed away about a week ago.  She was 95, so had a good long life, well lived.  She was one of the big names in knitting in the 1970s and 1980s, as women turned their intellectual abilities towards knitting and other similar crafts.  There's a lot to be said about so-called women's work, the feminism of the era, and the way that women who'd been restricted to women's work began to focus on and respect the worth of that work.  It's part of the whole ferment of that era -- feminism, civil rights, curiosity about other cultures, reclaiming old-fashioned skills that had fallen out of favor with mid-20th century modernizing, and everything else.

Barbara Walker is known for her collections of stitch patterns and also for her work on generating top-down templates for knitting various kinds of garments.  Her work in combination with Elizabeth Zimmermann's work were entirely liberating for me and many others.  I couldn't really follow most published patterns since I didn't fit the size range the patterns were in, and I couldn't get help from the store owners because I knit "funny" (i.e. continental style at a time when everyone around me did Anglo-American), and because I didn't like sewing pieces together.  I went looking for a book on how to design your own things, discovered Zimmermann and Walker, and never looked back.

The work of these new voices, along with the then-new interest in historic and ethnic knitting, helped to revitalize knitting in the 1970s to 1980s.  This is part of why knitting was such a big part of the early internet years.  Or pre-internet, depending on what you call things like bbs and delphi forums and early newsgroups and the like.  A lot of STEM majors in the university system were knitters, and of course they took those interests with them as the interconnectivity of the early internet started to develop and evolve.  Everything is of course related to everything, but modern knitting very much is a direct descendent of those knitting STEM majors and other knitting artists who were influenced by people like Walker.

Barbara Walker was also into feminist-focused mythology and tarot and other fun topics in feminism and spirituality, and apparently was active in modern dance.  She had a major impact in several fields.  I won't say it's a huge loss to the community -- she'd slowed down a lot in recent years, and she made her enormous contributions to each field decades ago and then moved on to yet other subjects -- but it's still a huge loss to all who knew and loved her, and she deserves a great deal of honor and respect for her many accomplishments over her very long life.  Everything she published about knitting is just as relevant today as it was when she wrote it.