The latest charity hat and a Lavori 07/30 progress report

Another charity hat is finished and ready to donate.  I'll have to look at the dwindling acrylic stash to see what color the next hat will be.  This one is a nice dark blue.

Lavori 07/30 doily progress -- I'm almost DONE!!!!!!  So exciting!  I have two more rounds of knitting to go (a pattern round and an intermediate round) and then it'll be time to do the crochet cast-off.  After that will come the challenge of finding a place (and the time) to block the doily, but I'll worry about that when I get there.

There are no further chart errors.  I'll give a full run-down of chart errors along with a re-post and re-discussion of my hex-mesh charting fix as part of the final report once everything is blocked and beautiful.

I have approximately 2400-2500 stitches left to knit.  That'll take a few hours, and the crochet cast-off will also take a few hours, and ditto for the blocking.  I believe there's enough thread in the current ball of thread to get me to the end, and if not, then I'll unravel the filet crochet project that I cut off the previous ball of thread, and use that to finish the crochet cast-off.  Dunno how long this will all take, but hopefully I'll be done before December, and if not, then before January.

It's been a big project for me -- nearly 7 months since I cast on, so far.  There was about a 4-6 week period where little knitting got done because I hadn't yet committed to any specific rechart of the problematic hex mesh area, but other than that, I've made slow but steady progress.

So.  That means I do have the stamina for large doily projects and no longer need to feel intimidated by the time commitment involved.  There's at least one >300-round doily (or tablecloth) I've been eyeing as well as many that are in the 150-250 round range.  Dunno what I'll do next.  I'm still very focused on finishing this doily now that I'm so close to the end.  I don't want to get too distracted.

There's not much else to report.  The Miami Vice shawl is growing.  The Appledore gansey is still sitting there, waiting for me to stop dithering about whether to do short-rows on the back or to contour the front neckline or both.  I also need to figure out many inches I'll need to knit to get to the shoulders.  Luckily, the intended recipient is around so I can take a few measurements and also try on the sweater when I get close.

I need more knitting projects, not counting the doilies.  Maybe another cabled hat?  Or toe-up socks with a self-patterning yarn?  Or another cat bed?

I haven't done much spinning lately, nor warped up a new rigid heddle weaving project.  There's a batch of Jacob/llama in my stash that's been tempting me lately.  I've already spun a different batch of Jacob/llama that I bought at the same time from the same person (but different sheep and llamas, probably, given that the roving color is different).  It made some very nice yarn.  I'm looking forward to seeing how this stuff spins compared to that.  But maybe I'll spin something else first.

And that's it for this post.

A bit of spinning and the first progress report of the month

I had written that the Navajo-Churro/Icelandic roving that I bought at Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival a few weeks ago was calling to me.

So I spun it.

It's not the world's softest yarn, but that's OK!  I had some trouble spinning it -- a bit of VM in the roving, areas that were clumpy vs areas that drafted smoothly, and so on.  But even though I was pessimistic after spinning the singles, plying took care of the irregularities.  It looks and feels fairly even.  I have about 200 yards of 2-ply from about 4 ounces of fiber.

Here's a pic of the roving blob.

The color is a nice medium to dark brown, with some of the fibers being a bit lighter or darker brown.

I'm not sure what I'll spin next.  But hopefully something soon.

Here's the roll-call progress report on other projects, complete with pics for a few of them:

Lavori 07/30 doily -- I have decided how to approach the next few rounds and am making slow progress.  I got sidetracked by other things so haven't worked on this for a few days.  It's exciting to be so close to done but daunting that these last rounds still have a few tens of thousands of stitches left to do.

Miami Vice travel shawl -- I've finished the first set of eyelets and am about to increase stitches again.  The variegation isn't doing anything annoying, yay.  I don't know how far I am in the pattern or how much yarn I've used, but that's OK.  I like this pattern/yarn combo enough to keep knitting.  I'm not sure what I'll do when I reach the end -- add a sideways knit edging?  It'll depend a bit on how much yarn is left and how tired I am of the project by then.  There are hundreds of yards of yarn between now and then.

Appledore gansey -- I've done the underarm gussets and am ready to split the front and back.  I'm dithering about whether to do a shaped neckline in the front, short rows in the back, or both.

Charity ribbed hat -- making progress whenever I need some mindless knitting.  I don't have a pic of this to share.  It's pretty basic, just a k1p1 ribbed hat in a dark green worsted-weight Red Heart acrylic yarn.

Hmm, I don't have enough projects going.

That's about it for the knitting/spinning progress!  I've been doing other things so it's not like I'm only sitting around and twiddling my thumbs.  But they are things that I don't tend to write about in this blog.

Continued doily dithering

Lavori 07/30 doily

OK, I've gotten as far as round 181 (really 182) on the Lavori 07/30 doily.  I've followed the chart but added the additional hex mesh motif in the middle of the hex mesh area.

Next round (183), another set of leaf tips joins the hex mesh motif.  I can do that round the same as the previous rounds, but I also have the opportunity to add yarnovers between the leaf tips and their neighboring leaves, similar to the way the chart had me do on round 173.

The decision I make will affect the next few rounds.

When I look closely at the photos in Lavori 7, it seems like this area has the maximum amount of binding and distortion.  So....  what should my approach be?

As charted (the incorrect way), round 183 has 8 stitches in the hex mesh area.  Round 185 and Round 187 have 8, round 189 has 6, round 191 has 2, and then leaf tips join again but it's all pretty straightforward from there.

One of the charts I drew (and have been following so far) does not add yarnovers.  Round 183 has 12 stitches in the hex mesh area (due to the extra hex mesh motif), round 185 has 10, round 187 has 6, round 189 has 4, and then round 191 has 2 and I've converged back on the same stitch count.

Given that the area will bind and distort when I block it, should I add more stitches so that rounds 187 and 189 have more stitches?  Or will it look stupid to have additional hex mesh motifs in that area, and also make it harder to converge back down to 2 stitches by round 191?   Round 193, which is labeled as 201, adds leaf tips again, which can complicate any approach that has more than 2 stitches for round 191, since I really do want to finish up the doily with the column of O-A-O (yo, sk2p, yo) between the outer fans (and leaves) for the final few rounds.

I will chart out a few possibilities now that I've reached this point and then decide what I want to do.

In other stream-of-consciousness ramblings, I made a knitting mistake in one of the pattern repeats, somewhere 2-4 rounds before round 181, in the area where leaves are growing from a stem.  Ugh.  Maybe I could fix it, but it's in a spot where there are lots of yarnovers, k-tbls, single decreases, and double decreases.  Chances are high that I'd make things a lot worse if I tried.  So...  I chickened out.  I left it alone and continued the pattern correctly on round 181, ignoring whatever was going on in round 179 or 177 or wherever it crept in.  Hopefully it won't be too obvious.  There will be a slight jog in the line of the stem in the one spot.  I don't know exactly what I did, but I think I did a twisted stitch instead of a double decrease and vice versa, low in the leaf where it's just separating from the stem and there are both stem stitches and leaf mid-rib stitches and the leaf's plain knit stitch(es) should surround the mid-rib but not the stem.

Sometimes I catch errors on the intermediate round, and sometimes I just tune out and knit without double-checking.  Most of the time, I can easily fix a problem even on the next pattern round because it's usually something pretty simple.  It gets trickier at places where there's a lot going on and it would be hard to build the section back up again if I drop the wrong yarnover or decrease at the wrong spot and various stitches run even further.  It's also complicated because this area is very scalloped due to the stacked increases and thus it's not always all that easy to follow the line of stitches from round to round.  I don't love this project so much that it needs to be perfect.  Heck, the design isn't perfect and we all know the chart isn't, either.

I am pretty excited to have only 20 pattern rounds left to go.  I think there are roughly 1100 stitches per round, give or take a bit, and it'll only keep increasing from here.  I'm glad I seem to have the stamina to do a 200+ round doily project these days.  Ten years ago I probably would have declined and chosen to do several smaller doilies instead.

I'm not sure what I'll do when this one is done.  Smaller doilies for a while?  And how small -- 50 rounds or 150 rounds?  Or do I want to choose another big one, where "big" is defined as over 150 rounds and probably over 200 rounds, or even over 300 rounds?  That's something to ponder as I eagerly plod my way through the next 20 rounds (and probably still close to 30,000 stitches).  The knitting is reasonably fun and I am genuinely happy about being close to done.  But it's still a lot of knitting.

Travel Shawl (Miami Vice shawl pattern)

I've finally knit all of the yarn that was reclaimed from the Daisies project and am now knitting fresh yarn from the yarn ball.  Yay!  So far there's no unhappy pooling, also yay!  I'm in the first band of the eyelet patterned part of the shawl.

More Travel Knitting (charity hat)

I needed a project that I could easily pick up and put down, no need to reach the end of a row or anything.  It's been a while since I knit a charity hat, so I started a new one.  It's in dark green acrylic (probably Red Heart) and is the usual k1p1 ribbed hat on 80 stitches.

Appledore Gansey

This is still coming along nicely.  I'm very close to the spot where I can start the underarm gussets.  I want to try it on the recipient to make sure it's not too big, too long, too short, etc., before I continue.  I'm nearing the end of my second skein of handspun, which means 325-ish yards once I reach the end.  The next skein I wound into a ball is about 125 yards.  Sweaters with fat yarn go faster and use less yardage than sweaters with thin yarn.  Not that this is necessarily good or bad.  There are trade-offs either way.  But I am definitely enjoying the speed at which the sweater is growing.

A Roving We Will Go (fiber fun)

I went to Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival with a friend.  We didn't have as much time there as we sometimes do.  So I think I missed some vendors I wanted to see.  Oh, well!  Also, we went on the last day so the selection was probably not quite as good as it was earlier.  There was still plenty available, of course!  And plenty of cute animals to admire, and sometimes even pet!

I was very restrained (probably too restrained) and only bought a few things.  My friend was also fairly restrained.

I got small batches (4 oz each) of a mostly-Romney roving in medium to dark gray, and a mixed Navajo-Churro/Icelandic roving in mid-brown.  I don't know if that's a cross-bred sheep or a blend, though I think it's a blend, and I don't know the percentages of each.  It  has lovely darker fibers (probably Icelandic outer coat) mixed in with the lighter.  The mostly-Romney is from cross-bred sheep.  The flock started out as Romney but over the years there were occasionally rams of other breeds introducing outside genetics.

I also got a slightly larger mixed Maker's Blend from a different vendor, of various colors of dark-autumn-toned wool with maybe a bit of alpaca.  It was packaged as a mini-bump, so I'm not sure if the colors are all kind of mixed together or if there will be some variegation as I spin it.

The Churro/Icelandic roving is whispering to me so I'll probably spin it up soon.  Chances are that I will do my usual default-spun 2-ply.  I'm not sure exactly what I'll do with the yarn since it's not going to be next to the skin soft.  A hat or a pair of mittens seems likely.  Or maybe I'll use it for weaving or something.

I also want to think about what to do with the Maker's Blend.  If it's variegated, then maybe I should do a chain ply (aka Navajo 3-ply).  Or keep it as singles and then ply it against something else, maybe.  Or keep it as singles, period, and use it that way.

Last year I got what I think was the same gray mostly-Romney roving from the same people.  It's already spun up into a lovely yarn.  It'll be interested to see how this year's roving compares.  That's part of why I stopped and bought stuff from these people once I saw their booth -- I knew I liked their roving from last year.

Here's a pic of the yarn I spun from last year's Romney-X roving.  I ended up with about 250 yards of 2-ply from the 4 ounces.  It was an enjoyable spin, very clean and easy to draft.

There are some other things in my fiber stash I'd like to spin soon. I've been eyeing them but haven't been able to decide what to spin first so nothing gets done.  Sigh.  I do want to have room in my stash for more lovely things by the time next year's fiber festivals start up.  Hopefully I'll settle down and spend time with my wheels as the weather continues its descent into winter.

It's probably about time for another post on spinning wheels...

I think that's all I wanted to ramble about today.

A Monmouth Cap

I have reached a pretty decent stopping point for the felting of a Monmouth cap I knit a few months ago.

I used Colleen Humphrey's pattern on Ravelry, which she says was done stitch-by-stitch from the extant Monmouth cap that is (or was) in the Nelson on Museum & Local History Centre (now known as the Monmouth Museum) in the UK.  Here's a link to the pattern (it's a free pdf download): https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/monmouth-cap-the-details-matter

Here is what the hat looked like fresh off the needles.

      

I used some Cascade 220 remnants, probably a bit more than one 100-gram skein.  It is knit 2-stranded, in the round, on whatever random big needle one has lying around.  Then it is felted down to size.  I used the washer/dryer rather than felting by hand, because I am lazy.

The first few rounds of felting were a bit unsatisfactory -- the felting was uneven, with some areas felting well and others almost completely unfelted.  But today I ran it through one more load of laundry, washer and dryer, and it felted sufficiently well.  I'll let it be and think about whether it would benefit from anything else.

I'd like to have a knitted hat that is relatively windproof as well as warm, and also somewhat water-resistant.  We'll see if this one works.

Warm, water-resistant, and wind-proof are my goals for things like hats.  I've knit a few that come pretty close.  We'll see if this one joins that rare club.  These days, I rarely take 6am walks when it's 0F and blizzarding.  So the warmth requirements aren't quite so hardcore.  Even so, wind is probably the biggest enemy of warmth.  I'm hoping this felted hat will be up to the task.

The hat fits slightly loosely around my temple (though it feels a bit snug going on, probably because there's not much elasticity left in the cast-on).  It does have a bit of a slouchy top, the air space that the hat is supposed to have.  Most sources claim that the hat is supposed to be worn above the ears.  I like to pull them down over my ears so that my ears stay warm.

It was fun to knit.  I've already knit one as a gift.  The previous one felted without any weirdnesses, though I didn't try to felt it down quite as much.  This one is for me.  I might well keep knitting them, just because.

The Monmouth Cap is a style of knitted hat that was popular in the UK between the 15th and 18th century, and is similar to a lot of European hats of that time period.

Someday I'll write about other warm hats I've knit in addition to the everyday hats that don't need to be quite as warm.  I have to go back through what I posted way back when to see if I already talked about them.

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I'm almost done with a <80-round doily that is a mini-KAL with someone else.  The pattern has some things that the other person found puzzling.  We got that figured out.  Then the other person decided that the photo didn't match the chart, and came up with a variant that looks a lot more like the photo.  Given the vagaries of charting, both variants are perfectly reasonable interpretations of the chart symbols.

The other person is done.  I will wait until pics have been posted before I write much more.  I am the follower rather than the leader of this KAL and it only seems right to let the other person post about the project before I do.

Is that sufficiently cryptic?

Anyway, I am looking forward to being done with this little doily so I can return to Lavori 7/30.

The Very Vintage Bias Ribbed Hat

A long time ago, back before there was much in the way of the internet, let alone a rich online knitting community, I came across an interesting hat in the shop of an alpaca ranch.  The owner told me that it was an old pattern.  She graciously shared it with me.  I scribbled the directions as fast as I could while she described how the hat was made.  I ended up with a quickly drawn schematic on a torn scrap of paper, with two or three sentences to clarify small details.

Eventually, I shared the pattern in private e-mails with friends.  Somehow, my pattern description ended up on the internet, or at least on one of the knitting-related mailing lists that were in their heyday over a decade ago.

Here it is again, preserved for posterity.  Well, posterity by internet standards, whatever that might mean.

This is a vintage pattern.  I do not know its origins, only that it was considered an old pattern at least twenty years ago.  I've formalized the schematic from my quick sketch of long ago so that it looks prettier for the blog.

I re-knit it quickly to get some photos and also to make sure that the directions were adequate.  Yep.  They're adequate.  I didn't pay much attention to details and variations.  I'll discuss a few ideas after the basics.


Classic Bias Ribbed Hat

One of the nice things about this pattern is that gauge does not matter as long as you get a fabric you like.

Here is the schematic:

That's all you need, really.


Here is the pattern in words:

Cast on 3 stitches.  You'll be working in a k2p2 rib, so always stay in pattern.

Start by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of each row.

When the sides are 12" long (the already knitted sides, not the side of active stitches on your needle), you'll be alternating increase rows with decrease rows.  On one side, you'll continue to increase one stitch at the beginning of the row.  On the other side, you'll decrease one stitch at the beginning of the row.

When the long side (the side with only increases) is 22" long, stop doing any increases.  Instead, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row.

When you are down to 3 stitches, cast off.

Sew the short ends together.  Gather one of the long sides to close the top of the hat.  Hide the ends.  That's all there is to it.

You can wear it with the brim up or down.  If your finishing is relatively neat, it is quite reversible.

I used worsted-weight alpaca for the hat in the photos above.  It can be done in any yarn and any gauge, of course.

I didn't pay any attention to selvages or increase/decrease methods.  I increased/decreased in the first stitch of each row.  It looks OK.  I'm sure one could play around with different methods if desired.  Although I left the edges plain, I could have added a row of crocheting to the bottom of the hat, or otherwise decorated it up a bit.

If you want to make this hat seamless, the easiest way I know is to cast on the full number of stitches using a provisional cast-on.  Increase at one side and decrease at the other until the hat goes around your head (22").  Then graft the end to the beginning.  The advantage of this is that it is seamless.  The disadvantage is that you need to know your gauge and also need to know how deep you want the hat.  You also need to know how to do provisional cast-ons and grafting in pattern, both of which are quite common now, but which were considered somewhat more esoteric several decades ago.

Enjoy this vintage pattern!  If anyone knows more about its history, please feel free to add some details in the comments.

Generic Ribbed Hat (pattern, sort of)

Hats. I've been thinking about hats.

I won't bore you with all my musings just yet. However, I will note that they are excellent projects for using up small quantities of stash yarns, especially when you're not sure if you have quite enough for a pair (of socks, mittens, wristers, etc.). Hats make good travel knitting. They are fun to knit for quick gifts. And they are a classic for many of the charity-knitting projects out there.

Given that, I thought I'd share one of my standard no-pattern hats that I've been making lately. Some of them are photographed here.

I started making these hats because I had all these small skeins of handspun yarn in my stash. Many were dyeing experiments, or small quantities of variegated roving that had somehow made a home in my fiber stash. The handspun yarn batches were all roughly 2 ounces, give or take a bit. All were variegated, though most of the variegation was fairly subtle.

Hey, I like dyeing and spinning that kind of stuff. Only later do I wonder what to do with all the one-bobbin's worth of variegated yarn skeins that I end up with.

Anyway, I ended up knitting a bunch of hats. Since I wasn't in the mood for extensive planning and swatching, I made them simple.

Yes, this is a very basic ribbed hat. It requires no real swatching, just some vague idea of what your gauge might end up being. It's very elastic, and thus will fit a variety of head sizes. It's long enough to have a folded-up brim, which I find essential in a winter hat. The length of the brim doesn't really matter -- it depends entirely on how much yarn you end up using, plus the head size and preference of the wearer.

Given the flexibility of the pattern, it's a good one for charity knitting, and for stockpiling in case you unexpectedly need a hat for a gift or for a guest.


Generic Ribbed Hat

If you already have a good ribbed hat pattern, you probably won't be interested in this. If you don't, here's the way to do it. You don't need a pattern, just a basic template or recipe.

Pick some yarn. You'll need roughly 2 ounces. A little more is fine, a little less will work, too. Pick any kind of yarn you want -- solid, variegated, thick-and-thin, whatever. Feel free to strand two or more kinds of yarn together. I tend to do that for my thinner handspun, since I wanted these hats to be fairly quick knits. You can also change yarns every now and then if you like doing that sort of thing.

I have found that a single 50g ball of yarn may or may not be enough. It depends on the yardage, which of course depends on the yarn thickness. You may end up with a rather short hat.

Pick an appropriate circular needle. Have a rough idea of what your gauge is going to be. I usually go for worsted weight, more or less -- anything from Aran to DK weight, usually working up at 4.5 stitches per inch (for the Aran weight) to 5.5 stitches per inch (for the DK weight).

Cast on about 20" worth of stitches, rounded to a multiple of 4. Calculate this by using your gauge estimate; it may be anywhere from about 80 to 120 stitches unless you're working with fingering weight or finer yarn. When I cast on, I don't fret if I end up casting on a few more or less as long as I have a multiple of 4. Hats can vary in size from about 18" to 22", depending on the head size of the recipient. Anyway, these hats are stretchy.

Join the cast-on and start ribbing -- *k2, p2*, ad infinitum.

As the hat grows longer, you can measure your actual gauge and thus confirm that the hat will fit. If you're using 2 strands or variegated or textured yarn, you can decide if you like the fabric. If you don't like the fabric or you think the hat will be too small or too big, unravel and start over. It was a gauge swatch, no big deal. You should also confirm that you're making a tube. It's annoying to accidentally put a twist into your knitting, but definitely better to realize your mistake sooner rather than later.

Eventually, you will be near the end of your yarn, or perhaps your patience. It's time to decrease the top of the hat and finish it.

I do different kinds of decrease patterns, depending on how long the hat is and how much yarn I have left. If I'm low on yarn and the hat is fairly small, I do very few decrease rounds, as few as two or three. If the hat is longer and I have more yarn, I might stretch it out over 6-10 rounds.

The fastest decrease is to do a round of *k2tog, p2tog*, followed by a round of *ssk*, and then rounds of *k2tog* until you're down to 12 or fewer stitches. This will make a very gathered-looking top, but it fits well.

If you have a bit more yarn, do a round of *k2tog, p2tog*, followed by a round of *k1, p1*, then a round of *ssk*, then a plain round of knitting, then *k2tog* until you're down to the last few stitches. You can separate some or all of the *k2tog* rounds by a round of plain knitting if you prefer.

The longest method is to do a round of *k2, p2tog*, followed by a round (or rounds) of *k2, p1*. Then, do a round of *k2tog, p1* (or *ssk, p1*), followed by a round (or rounds) of *k1, p1*. Then, do a round of *ssk*, followed by a round or two of plain knitting. Finally, do rounds of *k2tog*, separated by plain rounds or not as you wish, until you're down to those last few stitches.

To finish off, run the yarn end through those last few stitches, pull snug, and hide all ends.

If you're the kind of person who likes pompoms or I-cord or tassels, by all means go ahead and add them to your hat.

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This isn't the only kind of generic hat I knit. I tend to use these kinds of mental templates for basic hat structures, plugging in various kinds of stitch or color patterns as the mood strikes. I tend to do that with most other knitted items, too. I suspect that many knitters are similar in their approach to basic hats, mittens, scarves, sweaters, socks, etc.